Instructions for the pattern “Marlene trousers HM01”

We’re delighted that you’re interested in the smartPATTERN Marlene trousers HM01 multi-size pattern or that you’ve perhaps already purchased it as a paper or PDF pattern! In these instructions you will find all the information you need to sew your new Marlene trousers step by step. Please also take a look at our FAQ – there you will find answers to many questions, tips on buying fabrics and haberdashery, etc. If your questions are not answered there or you have feedback for us, please send us an e-mail to hallo@smartpattern.de.  Note for customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland For tax reasons, we do not sell patterns to customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland via our online store. However, we are currently setting up our Etsy store smartPATTERNsewing to be able to offer our multi-size and made-to-measure patterns to customers outside the EU and would be delighted if you would drop by there from time to time!

Why the instructions are only available online

We have deliberately decided to make our instructions available online only. This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions. You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small. Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish. To do this, use the corresponding print options in your internet browser. In many browsers, it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is available offline.
This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and you can still save yourself the trouble of printing out on paper.

Sizes and measurements

Size selection

The pattern is based on a body height of 168 cm. Choose your size based on the circumference of your hips. If you are between two sizes, we recommend the larger size. As you have chosen a pattern in ready-to-wear sizes, you may need to adjust the length, waist and leg width of the pattern if the measurements in our charts do not match your body measurements. If this is the case and you are not familiar with pattern adjustments and/or do not want to deal with them, we recommend that you order this pattern according to your exact measurements using our configurator.

Order made-to-measure patterns

To adjust this pattern to your body measurements and/or change the design, you can click on the button below and switch to our configurator. We have summarized the variants to be selected for this pattern in the product description. After the order process, we will generate your individual pattern, which you will then receive by e-mail approx. 0.5 – 10 hours later, depending on the order time and volume.

Body measurement chart

You will find a body measurement table here that you can compare with your own measurements.
Click on the button for instructions on how to take your measurements correctly.
There you will also find a PDF file in which you can enter your measurements and then save them for yourself.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Finish measurement chart

We have listed some of the measurements of the finished trousers in the finished measurements table. The circumference measurements are given as half measurements, i.e. half the waist size etc.. So you can easily compare them with the measurements of existing, well-fitting trousers. Here you will find a sketch where you can see where the respective measurements are taken.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Product description

The regular-waisted Marlene trousers HM01 have a slightly flared leg, a regular fit and a mid-rise waist. They have creases and a knee lining and are sewn with a blind hem. There are slanted “French” pockets at the front and classic welt pockets with 12 mm wide welt at the back. The 4 cm high shaped waistband ensures a good fit and optimum support. The front fly is finished with a zipper. The Marlene trousers are designed for non-elastic fabrics. If you want to use a slightly stretchy material, you need to ensure that the waistband does not stretch out by fixing it with a suitable interfacing. This pattern is based on the following configuration:

• Fit: regular
• Leg shape: slightly flared
• Waistband height: medium
• Crotch depth: normal
• Length: regular
• Front pockets: straight
• Back pockets: welt pocket, 12 mm
• Waistband width: 40 mm
• Waistband solution: shaped
• Trouser hem: blind hem
• Specials: iron pleat and frontlining

General information

Fabrics and materials

You will need the following materials to sew the Marlene trousers. You can find out how much fabric you need for your size and how long the zipper needs to be in the table below.

• Main fabric: woven fabric without elastane, e.g. wool, cotton, linen, corduroy
• Pocket lining, e.g. thin, firm cotton fabric
• lightweight lining fabric for the knee lining
• Fusible interfacing, e.g. Vlieseline G 405
• Edge tape 2 cm wide, e.g. Vlieseline T20
• 1 button for waistband, approx. 15 mm diameter
• Zipper for slit, see table for length
• Yarn matching your materials

We strongly recommend that you wash the fabric before sewing to prevent your finished Marlene trousers from shrinking later on. Therefore, wash the fabric in exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) as you will wash the finished garment later and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Take any shrinkage into account when buying the fabric! Unless otherwise specified for the respective fabric, assume an addition of 10 %, which should normally be sufficient. To prevent or reduce bleeding in colored fabrics, you can add a dash of vinegar to the washing machine or water.

The following length specifications per size refer to the usable material width specified in the left-hand column, assuming that the fabric is plain-colored. If you choose a patterned fabric, you may need more fabric depending on the size of the pattern.

Print the pattern and prepare it for cutting

You can find out how to prepare your pattern for cutting in the instructions Preparing patterns in ready-made sizes. The first part explains how layer printing works for A4 and A0 files. If you have already printed out your pattern, you can start directly at point 7. This is about cutting out and sorting the pattern pieces.

Here you can see an example of the labeling of a smartPATTERN pattern piece.

In the legend of your pattern sheet, you can see which line type (=cutting edge) you have to follow when cutting out your chosen clothing size.

Cutting

Below you will find some example layout plans based on the fabric widths given in the material consumption table. If you are using a fabric that is narrower, you will most likely need more fabric and will have to arrange the pattern pieces differently. If your fabric is wider, you may need less length. You can arrange the pattern pieces in advance on a large table or the floor on which you mark your fabric width to find out exactly what length of fabric you need. Remember to take into account any shrinkage values of the fabric!

The pattern pieces are placed on the open or folded fabric panel. The right side of the fabric, or in the case of the fusible interfacing, the side without the adhesive dots, should be facing upwards. You can see from the label on the pattern piece whether you need to cut a pattern piece individually or twice (as a pair or in reverse). You can find more information on this in the instructions for cutting fabrics and materials.

Cutting plans

Main fabric – Size 40

Main fabric – Size 50

Main fabric – Size 60

Pocket lining – size 40

Pocket lining – size 50

Pocket lining – size 60

Interfacing – size 40

Interfacing – size 50

Interfacing – size 60

Sewing instructions

There are detailed sewing instructions for each step. Below you will find the instructions in the order in which you need them for sewing. Click on the respective link next to the numbering or on the picture.
If you like working with video tutorials, you will find one in each tutorial, but currently only available in German. You can display the subtitles in the language of your choice via the YouTube settings.
We wish you lots of fun and success sewing your Marlene trousers!

1. Sewing darts in trousers

2. Sew knee lining into trousers

3. Ironing creases

4. Preparing the trousers for fitting

We highly recommend that you do not skip this step. Of course you will need some time – about 1 hour – for stitching and unstitching, but it is much easier to make changes at this stage than later!

5. Sew welt pockets

6. Sew french pockets

7. Sew leg seams and blind hem

8. Sew classic fly with zipper

9. Sew divided waistband and close the seat seam

Show your work

We would be delighted if you showed your work in our Facebook group and/or on Instagram! Link us on Instagram with @smartpattern and use the hashtag #smartpatternmarlene so that we can find you.

Browse through our store and discover your next project!

Legal matters

REPRODUCTION AND COMMERCIAL USE These sewing instructions and the pattern (including all texts, illustrations, photos and graphics) are protected by copyright. Any distribution or reproduction is not permitted. If you would like to sell a product commercially that is sewn according to this pattern, please contact us by e-mail at: lizenzen@smartpattern.de