Sewing instructions for french trouser pockets

Sew french pockets into trousers #TV01

23. March 2024

Instructions, Trousers, Sewing, Chino, Marlene, Trouser pocket

In the following tutorial, I will explain step by step how to sew french pockets in various shapes using video and illustrated text instructions. French pockets are also known as wing pockets. They can be shaped in different ways. I chose the squared shape for the instructions because it requires an additional processing step compared to the straight shape. I will explain what else you need to consider with the round bag shape, referred to as banana in the configurator, in the relevant sections.

Table of contents

Video instruction:

The instructions for the squared bag shape are not included in the video. If you have decided on this shape, please take a look at the following illustrated text instructions so that you know what you need to pay attention to.

1. This is required

hosentasche-vorne-naehen-benoetigte-schnittteile

Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:

front pieces (VH) – 1 pair (the pocket opening is already cut away here – see last point of the fitting instructions)
upper pocket bag facing (TBOB VH) – 1 pair
lower pocket bag facing (TBUB VH) – 1 pair

Pattern pieces made from lining fabric:

upper pocket bag (TBO VH) – 1 pair
lower pocket bag (TBU VH) – 1 pair

Tools and aids:

pins or clips
scissors
edge tape (for straight pocket opening: e.g. T20 from Vlieseline; for shaped and angular pocket opening: e.g. T12 from Vlieseline)

2. Sew pocket facings onto pocket bags

The picture shows how the pocket bag covers are finished. — Neaten the front edges of the facing.

The front edges of the upper and lower pocket bag facing are finished with an overlock or zigzag seam.

The picture shows how the pocket covers are attached to the pocket bags. — The pocket covers are attached to the pocket bags.

Place the top facing on the top pocket bag and the bottom facing on the bottom pocket bag so that the shape and notches match.

In this example the right side of the pocket bag fabric will be seen inside the trousers. If you choose to have the right side of the pocket bag facing inside your pockets, you have to align the pieces the opposite way.

The picture shows how the pocket facings are quilted onto the pocket bags. — The pocket facings are quilted onto the pocket bags.

The facing is stitched onto the pocket lining right side facing up by 3 mm distance to the edge and within the overlock seam. If you are using lightweight fabric you can also choose to fold the edge over by 10mm and omit finshing it with the overlock machine.

3. Secure the pocket entry on the front piece

The picture shows how the front pocket opening of the trouser pockets is reinforced so that it does not wear out. — The pocket opening is reinforced with matching tape to prevent it from stretching.

The edge tape is ironed onto the the pocket opening. This will prevent the fabric from stretching. If you don’t have any ribbon available, you can also cut a strip of fusible interfacing.

In the picture you can see how the tape is worked in two pieces on the squared pocket shape and ironed onto the opening. Next to it you can see the straight tape that is suitable for the straight pocket, and last you can see how you can lay the shaped tape to make it fit to the rounded edge.

4. Sew on the upper pocket bag

The picture shows how the front pocket bag is sewn onto the front trousers. — The pocket pouch is placed on the opening edge.

The upper pocket bag is placed with the facing side on the right side of the front trousers. The opening edges are matching, pinned in place and sewn together with a straight stitch at a seam allowane of 1 cm.

5. Seam allowance for a squared or rounded pocket opening

The picture shows how the seam allowance must be cut into the square pocket. — The seam allowance is cut in.

With the square pocket shape, the seam allowance is cut exactly in the corner to just right before the seam. Be careful not to cut into the seam.

The picture shows how the seam allowance is cut into a round notch edge. — The seam allowance is cut several times in the curve.

For a round or shaped pocket opening it is important to cut the seam allowance 3 to 5 times up to approx. 2 mm before the seam. It is also advantageous to offset the incisions in the layers so that they are less visible on the outside. As the square pocket opening is slightly rounded at the top, the seam allowance is also cut into this shape. This step is not necessary with the straight pocket opening.

6. Turning and understitching of the french pockets’ opening

The picture shows how the opening edge of the front trouser pocket is ironed after the front pocket bag has been sewn on. — The seam should be ironed before the pocket bag is turned inside out.

Before you turn the pocket opening, you should iron it over.

Depending on your preferences, the pocket opening can be finished with or without visible ropstitching. If you omit the topstitching, an understitch on the facing side ensures greater durability. When the trousers are positioned as shown in the picture, the facing is stitched to the seam allowance approx. 2 mm from the seam.

The picture shows how the opening edge of the trouser pocket is stitched at the front with a decorative seam. — The opening edge can be topstitched from the outside.

If you want a topstitch on the front of your trouser pocket, topstitch the pocket opening at a distance of 2 to 6 mm from the edge on the right-hand side.

7. Place front piece on lower pocket bag and secure

The picture shows how the trousers are placed on the lower pocket bag. — The front trousers are placed on the lower pocket bag.

The front trousers are now placed with the opening edge on the lower pocket bag, notches matching. The right side of the fabric of the front trousers and the facing of the lower pocket bag are visible from the top.

The picture shows where the lower pocket pouch of the trouser pocket is secured at the front with a few stitches so that nothing slips. — The lower pocket bag is secured with a few stitches.

Now fasten the raw edge with pins or clips so that the facing and front trousers form a harmonious line at the waist edge and side seam. Secure at the two marked points with a few stitches so that nothing can slip out of place.

8. Sew the pocket bags together

The picture shows how the upper and lower pockets of the trouser pocket are placed on top of each other at the front. — The upper and lower pocket bags are connected.

Now the pocket bag still needs to be closed. To do this, the top and bottom pocket bags are pinned together.

The edges of the pocket bags no longer fit together exactly after all the workingsteps. It is important that the edges are not pulled together exactly, but are pinned together smoothly. If necessary, you can trim the edges before sewing them together.

The picture shows how the edges of the pocket bag are finished. — The pocket bag is finished.

The seam is closed with a straight stitch and the raw edges are finished with an overlock seam or a zigzag stitch.

You can also close the edge with a french seam. If you would like to know how to do this, take a look at the instructions for front jeans pockets.

9. Pleat option

The picture shows how the pleat is folded at the waist. — The pleat at the waistband is folded according to the markings in the pattern.

If your trouser shape has a pleat at the waist, this should now be folded and secured in the next step.

10. Auxiliary seam on the french pockets’ bag

The picture shows how the pocket bag of the trouser pocket is secured at the front within the seam allowance. — The pocket bag is secured inside the seam allowance.

Now everything is being ironed out again. The pocket bag can be pinned at the top edge and side seam and joined to the front trousers by stitching in place within the seam allowance.

11. Topstitching with angular edge

The picture shows how the lower part of the opening edge of a square front trouser pocket can be finished with a decorative seam. — An additional decorative seam can be added to the angular folded edge.

Depending on how you like it, you can topstitch the lower, short section of the square trouser pocket at the front with a decorative seam. It is best to try it out first to see if the pocket opening is still large enough.

12. Finished french pockets

The picture shows what the finished trouser pockets look like at the front. — The finished side pockets.

This is what the finished front trouser pockets look like – here in the square shape.

Here you will find the links to the next step

for the chinos: sewing fly with zipper #Z01
for the jeans with zipper: Sew fly with zipper in jeans trousers #Z02
for jeans with button placket: Sewing fly with concealed button placket in jeans trousers #Z03

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here:

Sew side pocket download schnittmuster