Instructions on the fabric cutting DIY scissors with fabrics

The cutting of fabrics and materials

You can fill books with the topics of fabric cutting and this has already been done many times. Therefore, in this step-by-step guide, I will only explain a few basic terms and explain how a smartPATTERN sewing pattern is constructed.

Basically, the aim is to cut the fabrics and materials in the shape of the pattern pieces. I have explained how to prepare your pattern for cutting here.

The picture explains the labeling of the smartPATTERN cut parts.
Explanation of the smartPATTERN cut part labeling.

All seam allowances are already included in the smartPATTERN sewing patterns. This means that you can cut the pattern pieces out of the fabric directly along the outer contour (the cut edge). The inner dashed line, which usually runs parallel to the cut edge, is the seam line. Internal marking lines are also shown as dashed lines. The short, approx. 4 mm long lines running at right angles to the cut edge are known as “notch”.

In the illustration you can see the system according to which the pattern pieces are labeled:

  • Line 2: Article number
  • Line 5: pattern peice name|MATERIAL
  • Line 6: Required number of cut pieces
  • Lines 3 and 4: German translation of lines 5 and 6

The product name and article number are identical on all pattern pieces of a pattern.

2. Prepare fabrics

The picture shows how much a fabric can shrink after washing
Here is an example of how much a fabric can shrink after washing

I generally recommend washing and ironing outer and lining fabrics before cutting them out. Some fabrics shrink a lot the first time you wash them and it would be a shame if your work no longer fits later! To be on the safe side, you should clarify how the materials are to be cared for and whether and at what temperature they can be washed and ironed when buying the fabric.

3. Layplans

The picture shows how the layout plans from the instructions can help you position the pattern pieces on the fabric.
The layout plans in the instructions help you to position the pattern pieces on the fabric.

In the sewing instructions that you receive together with your pattern, you will find layplans for the materials of your project (not of the templates, these only serve as an aid). These show how you can place the pattern pieces on the fabrics and whether the fabric is open or folded. The example layplans refer to the fabric width specified in the list of fabric consumption. This width may differ from the width of your fabrics. The layplans are therefore for orientation purposes only.

You can assign the pattern pieces using the “NAME SHORT CODE”.

4. Cutting in single or double fabric layer

The picture shows folded fabric for double-layer cutting. The right side of the fabric is visible.
The fabric is folded for double-layer cutting.

With the “open cut”, the fabric is laid out in one layer; the selvedges are visible at both sides. In “folded cutting”, selvedge is placed on selvedge and the material is folded in half so that it “breaks” in the middle. This folded edge is also called a “fabric fold”. You can see whether the pattern pieces are cut in a single or double layer of fabric from the layplans in your sewing instructions.

When cutting the fabrics, the outer fabric side (also called the “pretty” or “right” fabric side) is facing upwards and is therefore visible. In reverse, this means that the inner side of the fabric (also known as the left side of the fabric) is facing the tabletop or, if the material is folded, towards the inside.

On the fusible interlings, the side with the adhesive dots corresponds to the left-hand side of the fabric. These are therefore at the bottom of the cut.

5. Cutting in the thread path / grainline

The picture shows how the distances to the selvedge or the fabric fold are checked so that the cut is made in the grain.
The pattern pieces are aligned with the selvedge or the fabric fold.

When laying out the pattern pieces, it is important to take the grain into account. You can recognize the grain line in the pattern pieces by the line with the arrowhead, which is also labeled “grainline”.

Place the pattern pieces on the materials so that the grain line runs parallel to the selvedge or the fabric fold. Here you can use a tape measure to help you adjust and measure the distances to the selvedge or folded edge.

With patterned, structured or shiny outer fabrics in particular, it can be important that the arrowhead of the thread path points in the same direction on all parts, i.e. the arrow for the thread path always points from top to bottom.


If you use selvage denims, you can “ignore” the grain for certain details, e.g. the coin pocket and the back trouser pockets. It is then possible to use the selvedges for the upper pocket edges.

6. Number of pattern pieces

Line 6 of the pattern piece labeling indicates how often you need to cut the individual pieces. If a pattern piece is required as a “pair”, i.e. once from the left and once from the right, you only place it once when folding (double-layered) and it is then automatically available as a “pair”. You can lay out the pattern pieces so that you can see the lines and the lettering or you can lay them out mirrored if this is advantageous for the fabric consumption. In the latter case, transfer the grain line to the unmarked side, e.g. by folding it, so that you can recognize it when cutting. After cutting, these parts can then be mirrored so that you can also transfer the notches. Parts that are only needed once can only be cut through the top layer when folded.

For open (single layer) cutting, you must mark the pattern pieces that are required as a pair once with cutting chalk or a trick marker. For the second piece, place the pattern piece the other way round, i.e. mirrored along the grainline. Then the labeled side of the pattern piece is not visible.

Once everything is in place, the cut parts are secured to prevent them from slipping. You can pin them in place with pins or weigh them down with small weights. You can use household items such as cups, coasters etc. as weights. Now you can finally grab the scissors and cut the fabrics into the appropriate shapes.

The picture shows how the pattern pieces placed on the fabric are secured against slipping.
The positioned pattern pieces are secured with pins or weights to prevent them from slipping.

7. Transfer notches and mark fabric sides

Mark the wrong (inner) side of the fabric after cutting by marking with tailor's chalk
Mark the wrong (inner) side of the fabric after cutting

Transfer the notches (these are the short, approx. 4 mm long lines at right angles to the cut edge) onto the fabric as short incisions or with a marker pen. These are used for orientation when assembling the parts.
If the right and left sides of the fabric are difficult to distinguish from each other, it is advisable to mark the left side of the fabric with a symbol.
I use tailor’s chalk for this and draw a cross or the name abbreviation as a marker, for example.

I leave the paper pattern on my fabric for as long as possible because I can find all the information here and can orient myself better. But now it’s finally time to start sewing. Have fun with it!