Ironing creases into trousers #ADD02

1. This is required:

If you are sewing your trousers with a knee lining and have already folded it under, the fold line for the front crease has already been transferred. Then you won’t need any other ingredients or tools apart from the front pants and can continue right here.

Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:

• Front pieces (VH)- 1 pair; the area for the pocket opening is still cut on wing pockets

Paper pattern pieces:

• Front (VH)

Tools and aids:

• Long ruler
• Hand shears
• Chalk or marker pen
• Pins
• Basting thread and sewing needle

Work creases into the front trousers

2.Transfer the crease from the pattern

If you have your pants incl. of a crease, the grainline corresponds to the crease. If you want to add a crease to trousers that do not have this option in the pattern, the procedure is identical. In this case, you could simply extend the grain line upwards.

The crease is marked from the right side on the outer fabric pieces. I therefore first lay the two pattern pieces on top of each other with the wrong sides together and then place the paper pattern on top.

The marked grain corresponds to the crease. I pin the pattern piece through this line through both layers of fabric. I repeat this in three to four places along the entire length of the front trousers.

I then turn the two layers of fabric together. Turn the pattern piece over so that the side previously lying on the table is facing upwards. I place the long ruler exactly on the pins and transfer the crease to the front trousers.

To transfer the marking of the pins to the other pattern piece, I fold the pattern pieces backwards.

I use tailor’s chalk to mark the places where the pins are inserted.

Then I can remove the pattern piece again and connect the markings on the second trouser part with the long ruler.

3. Mark the crease with basting thread

As the chalk mark would gradually disappear during further processing, I mark the crease with a basting thread.

If you would like to add a knee lining to your pants, you can find the corresponding instructions here.

I’m working here on my ironing board. I place a cutting mat under the lining fabric so that I don’t cut into it when stitching. At the upper end of the grain line, I start marking the crease with the basting thread.

I use a large basting stitch and make sure that the marking is completely straight.

I sew the basting thread at the hem so that it cannot come loose. I leave this thread in the front part until the pants are finished.

This is what the finished marking looks like.

4. Iron in the front crease

First, I brush the chalk markings out of the pattern piece. I have already serged the trouser parts here because I have incorporated a knee lining. If you are sewing your pants without a knee lining, the edges will be finished later.

I touch the front trousers in the area of the basting thread…

… and place them twice – left to left – in front of me.

Then I align them so that the crease mark is exactly in the fold. I make sure that the broken edge is not stretched out and therefore place it in front of me with a slight tuck.

First, I roughly pre-iron the course of the folded edge.

Tip

If you have a delicate fabric, iron with a Teflon soleplate or place a smooth tea towel between the iron and the outer fabric, for example.

I then press the fold down piece by piece. I work at quite high pressure and take a lot of time.

If you have an (unpainted) wooden brush or ironing board, you can place it on the ironed folded edge. The wood absorbs the moisture, causing the fabric to cool down more quickly and making the selvedge even smoother.

I leave the area at the hem turn-in or turn-up unpressed for the time being, as the pleat will be pressed down to the hem edge again later when the leg seams are closed and the hem is finished.

Finally, I turn the pattern piece over and press it completely over again from the other side.

Then I set it aside to cool and repeat the steps for the second front part of the pants.

The basting thread for the crease remains in the front section until the trousers are finished.

If you like, you can topstitch the crease close to the edge to create a piping. The fact that the trousers may be slightly tighter due to a stitched crease is generally not a problem for further processing. If you feel it is too tight when you try it on, you can add a little extra width at the side seam.

I recommend that you test the width of the quilting on a scrap piece beforehand. If you have configured your trousers with a turn-up hem, topstitching is not recommended. By folding the hem over several times, the quilting would no longer be shown to its best advantage and might look crooked.

If you also want to add creases to the back of the trousers, this step should only be carried out after the leg seams have been closed and the hem has been finished. Then jump back to these instructions at this point. However, I would advise against it for shapes that are quite wide at the buttocks, as the creases could protrude unattractively there.

Work creases into the back of the trousers

I lay the trouser leg in front of me so that the inside leg seam is facing me and the crease on the front of the trousers is slightly gathered, i.e. not stretched.

Then I place an object, in this case my clothes brush, on the front crease so that it doesn’t move.

I start about a hand’s width above the inner leg seam, i.e. approximately at the level of the front slit end. Below the seat, I try to iron away the width at the back crease or keep it short. I do this very carefully in several stages so as not to iron any creases into the fabric.

As this step is difficult to show in pictures, I recommend you take a look at the video here.

The crease is ironed in right up to the hem.

Finally, I turn the trouser part over again, weigh down the front crease again and iron out the entire leg from this side too.

Then I measure the height of the crease on the back pants and transfer it to my other trouser leg so that the creases start at the same height as the seat. I then iron the crease into the second trouser leg as well.

Here you will find the links to the next steps:

• Insert pleats into trousers #BF01
• Preparing classic trousers for fitting #F03

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here:

• Preparing the pattern for cutting
• Cutting fabrics and materials