Here you will find tips and tricks about our patterns and the answers to many questions.
You can also take a look at our instructions with tips and tricks for the various patterns:
If you are missing something, please send us an email to hallo@smartpattern.de.
You can see an overview of our pattern configurators here.
If you move the mouse pointer over the respective image, you will receive further information about the pattern and will also find the link to the corresponding store article.
There you will also find further design examples.
The legs have a barrel-like shape, which is created by darts, side inserts or the stitching.
The wideleg is tight at the waist.
The legs become evenly wider from the hips.
The Marlene has been a closet classic for almost 100 years – whether styled as suit trousers or sporty-casual.
Tight at the thigh and wide at the hem – the classic 70s style still works today.
Tight-fitting and designed for stretchy fabrics – stretch jeans are a comfortable must-have in every closet.
Wider than the stretch jeans, narrower than the boyfriend, with a tapered leg shape similar to mom jeans.
Often combined with a high waistband and tight at the seat, the carrot-shaped legs of the mom offer pure comfort.
Often made from lightweight fabrics and with piped pockets, chinos are a comfortable classic for warmer days.
Loose cut and a little oversized, often rolled up – just as if you had borrowed them from your boyfriend…
Similar to the boyfriend, but with a straight side seam to show off the selvedge.
Whether narrow or casual, for stretchy fabrics or not – the configurator offers countless possibilities.
The casual men’s jeans for every occasion – with a straight side seam to showcase the selvedge of Japanese denims.
Often made from lightweight fabrics and with piped pockets, chinos are also a comfortable classic for men on warmer days.
There is a configurator for each of our patterns.
There you can configure the pattern according to your ideas and body measurements.
You always have the choice between different fits, pocket variations, waist heights and so on …
Depending on which device you open the configurator on, the display will be slightly different.
You will find the selection options either on the left or at the bottom of the page.
The sketches show you what your chosen configuration will look like.
When configuring, always proceed from top to bottom or from left to right.
If you want to change your previous selection again, check whether the following entries are still correct.
There is a short description for each selection option to help you make your choice.
At the very end, enter your measurements or select a clothing size.
Please also take a look at the relevant points here in the FAQs.
Taking the right measurements is important to ensure that your garment fits properly later on.
So take enough time to determine your measurements and perhaps get some help with this.
In the configurator, you will find a short explanation for each measurement that is requested and a link to a YouTube video in which we show you how to determine the respective measurement.
We have also summarized the individual steps with pictures and text in instructions, which also contain the links to the videos:
For each measurement, the configurator contains a sketch, a short description, the link to the YouTube video and the field for entering the measurements.
Enter all the measurements one after the other and finally click on the “Save your changes” button, shown here in the top right-hand corner of the image. After entering the bottom circumference and body height, the configurator automatically checks the plausibility of the measurements entered. For example the difference between the inside leg length and the side length; if it is very small, it may be implausible if you have previously selected a high waistband height.
You will then receive a message during configuration that the measurements deviate too much.
If this happens, you can cancel the measurement entry process and change the waistband height selection.
Then check whether the following options still correspond to your selection, adjust them if necessary and enter your measurements again.
If something still doesn’t work, please send us an email to hallo@smartpattern.de.
Yes, this is possible.
Under “Measurements” you can choose whether you want to use a standard size as a basis or enter your individual measurements.
Once you have decided on the ready-made sizes, you will see a “Size Guide” button at the top left.
Click on it to choose your suitable standard size.
Yes, you can save your measurements after entering them in the configurator.
To do this, you must log in to your user account or create one before starting the configuration.
After entering the dimensions, click the “Save your changes” button.
Enter a name for your profile in the window that opens and click on save.
The next time you configure the same item with the same preselection for the waistband height, you can select your profile when entering the measurements and adjust it if necessary.
Unfortunately, it is not yet technically possible to retrieve the saved measurements for another item.
If you have created a measurement profile in a previous configuration of the same item, you must first log in to your account.
When entering the measurements, select your profile in the top center of the window.
This process only works within the same article, e.g. if you have already created a profile for a pair of Barrelleg jeans and then want to configure another pair of Barrelleg jeans.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to call up a profile for another item.
You can find the measurements that you used for an order in the PDF instructions that you received with your pattern.
Once you have entered all the measurements, click on the “Save your changes” button.
You can then “Finish customizing” your pattern.
After a few seconds, a pop-up window will open.
You can decide whether you want to go back to the configurator to make any changes or to the shopping cart.
In the shopping cart, you have the option of displaying all your entries again before you complete the order.
In the shopping cart, you can view all your entries again and correct them if necessary before you submit your order.
Click on the small i next to the product name.
Your selection and measurements will be displayed in a pop-up window.
If you want to change something, click on the black pencil.
You will then automatically be taken back to the configurator where you can correct your entries.
Depending on the volume and timing of your order, we usually need 0.5 to 10 hours to create your pattern and send it to you by e-mail.
You will receive your pattern e-book by e-mail to the address you entered during the order process.
The e-mail has three attachments, namely
You can open the PDF files with the free Adobe Reader.
We always send made-to-measure patterns by e-mail to the address you entered during the order process.
You will also receive a confirmation to this address immediately after placing your order.
If nothing arrives in your inbox, please also check your spam folder.
If you have not received an email from us after 10-12 hours, please send us an email to hallo@smartpattern.de.
If you have already received an order confirmation, please also include the order number to make it easier for us.
We will then endeavor to solve the problem as quickly as possible.
If this happens, something has definitely gone wrong 😉.
You can try opening the email again in a different browser.
If that doesn’t work either, please reply to the email that you received without attachments.
We will of course do our best to send you the missing files as soon as possible.
In a nutshell: Yes, but of course we are happy to explain why this is the case: every made-to-measure pattern is created individually.
It is not technically possible to go back to previous orders, “just” make a few adjustments and then send the pattern again.
The effort for a new configuration, even if it differs only slightly from a previous order, is therefore exactly the same as for the previous order.
For minor pattern adjustments, you will find some tips and tricks further down in the FAQ – perhaps you will get further with these and won’t need a new pattern at all.
We are currently in the process of creating various patterns as multi-size patterns.
As soon as they are ready, you will find an overview here.
The idea of smartPATTERN is to develop individual patterns for well-fitting garments.
Very few bodies correspond to any measurement charts, which is why clothing made according to patterns in ready-made sizes rarely fits as well as clothing made according to a made-to-measure pattern.
In the configurator, there are countless – well, at least several thousand to hundreds of thousands – possibilities for each pattern to create an individual pattern from the various options and variants, and we haven’t even counted the individual measurement entries.
It goes without saying that we can’t offer so many different patterns as multi-size patterns, right?
We have therefore selected various pattern variants which, based on previous orders and current trends, we assume will be worthwhile for you and for us to prepare as multi-size patterns.
A multi-size pattern will be displayed in the download area of your account immediately after ordering and can be downloaded there.
We send made-to-measure patterns by e-mail, unfortunately they cannot be saved in your account.
When you are in your customer account, select “Downloads” in the navigation bar.
There you will see all the plus size patterns you have purchased.
You will receive the following files:
Both patterns contain a QR code and a link to the respective instructions.
You can open the PDF files with the free Adobe Reader.
You can print out the pattern in A4 format on a normal printer on A4 paper and then glue it together.
You can find instructions here: Preparing the pattern for cutting | smartPATTERN You can give/send the pattern in A0 format to a print shop if you don’t happen to have the option of plotting it yourself.
Perhaps there is a print shop or copy store near you.
Otherwise we can recommend Die Plotterei, for example.
No, you only need to print the size(s) you need.
All multi-size patterns contain separate layers for each size, so you can only select the layers for printing that are relevant to you.
Instructions are in preparation and will be linked here as soon as they are ready.
Occasionally it can happen with our made-to-measure patterns that not all of the notches included in the pattern are printed out when printing A4.
Unfortunately, we cannot say when and why this happens.
If you experience this problem, you can print the file as an image:
Yes, you can, because the size layers are also present in the A0 file.
However, you need to edit the file before you send it for plotting to ensure that only the desired layers are printed.
You can find video instructions on how to do this at @sabinevoneinfachanziehend: PDF file with layers – prepare pattern for plotting service (youtube.com)
If there is a fabric store near you, just pop in and ask for advice on which fabrics are suitable for your pattern.
We can also recommend the following online stores:
Of course, there are countless other online stores that offer suitable fabrics.
We have limited ourselves here to stores with which we cooperate or have had good experiences, e.g. in sample sewing.
How much fabric you need depends on various factors, in particular the pattern you have chosen, your body measurements and the fabric width.
For the made-to-measure patterns, the fabric consumption is calculated individually for your configured pattern.
You will find the information on fabric consumption in the PDF instructions that you receive with the pattern.
For the multi-size patterns, you will find a table on the product page that shows the fabric requirements for the different sizes.
Please note the fabric width for which the fabric requirement has been calculated – you may need a little more or a little less fabric than indicated.
With patterned fabrics, e.g. checks, you usually need more fabric than specified so that the pattern matches up correctly at the seams.
We recommend that you wash the fabric before you use it, just as you will wash the finished garment.
This will prevent shrinkage later on.
Be aware of possible shrinkage when buying fabric and ask the retailer for advice if necessary.
Of course, this depends entirely on which pattern you have chosen and what look you want your finished garment to have.
For all jeans patterns, you can use denim, but also corduroy, slightly heavier linen or cotton fabrics, twill, etc.
The different fabrics can give the same pattern a completely different look.
Wool fabrics are particularly suitable for the Marlene, but linen, cotton, twill, denim and corduroy are also possible.
Chinos are traditionally sewn from lighter cotton twills, but linen, light denims etc. are also possible here.
Online stores often indicate what the fabric in question is suitable for, and you can get advice from your local fabric store.
If you have chosen a pattern for stretchy fabrics, your fabric must of course also be stretchy enough.
How to find this out is described below.
First of all, it should be said that the amount of elastane contained in a fabric does not indicate how stretchy it is.
It is merely an indication that the fabric is stretchy, although fabrics without elastane can also be stretchy.
Therefore, be sure to check the item description in online stores and, if necessary, ask the supplier whether the fabric is stretchy and to what extent.
You can configure some of our patterns for fabrics with different levels of stretch and select the stretch in the configurator.
We state the stretch in percent.
You can find out the percentage of stretch in your fabric as follows: Mark a distance of 10 cm on the fabric perpendicular to the selvedge/break, e.g. with two pins at the beginning and end of the distance.
Stretch the fabric without using too much force and without it wrinkling too much and measure how long the previously marked section is now.
If the fabric can be stretched from 10 cm to 11 cm, it can be stretched by 10 %.
If you can stretch it to 12 cm, the stretchability is 20 %.
This is basically possible.
However, remember that your garment will then fit a little looser or the fabric will give more way when worn than a non-stretchy fabric.
It is important that you reinforce the waistband of trousers with a firm interfaxing so that it cannot stretch out when worn – otherwise the trousers will be too loose later on.
You should definitely iron on the interfacing before trying on the trousers so that you can see whether it provides sufficient support when you try them on.
Yes!
We strongly recommend that you wash your fabric before sewing to prevent the finished garment from shrinking later on.
Therefore, wash the fabric in exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) as you will wash the finished garment later and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
With denim fabrics, it can happen that the fabric gets light-colored stripes during washing, namely where creases form during the washing process.
This cannot always be 100% avoided.
However, it helps if you place the fabric in a large bowl or similar in water before putting it in the washing machine and let it soak up all the water.
To prevent or reduce bleeding on colored fabrics, you can add a dash of vinegar to the washing machine or water.
In the case of selvedge/selvage denims, insiders are of the opinion that the fabrics should never be pre-washed and that the finished garments should only be washed after intensive wear.
This is to ensure that the discoloration/stripes described above occur exactly where the trousers get creases and folds from being worn.
Whether you pre-wash selvedge denim or not is of course up to you.
However, remember that possible shrinkage is not taken into account in our patterns and use the manufacturer’s instructions on shrinkage to decide whether you should sew your garment a little longer/wider as a precaution or whether it is large enough anyway so that it will still fit after washing.
Whether selvedge, selvage or self-edge – this always refers to a robust denim with a special selvedge. Selvedge denims are produced on shuttle looms, which have their origins in the USA. As demand for denim increased, they were replaced by industrial looms. The Japanese market has bought up many of the discarded looms and is now the market leader in the production of selvedge denims. A special feature of selvedge denims is the smooth selvedge without fringes, which is created by the weft thread always being passed back and forth. The selvedge is white and is secured with a colored – usually red – thread. Selvedge denim jeans are often turned up so that the selvedge is visible. Shuttle looms are narrower than industrial looms, which is why selvedge denims are usually no wider than 90 cm. The warp threads are often still threaded manually, which takes almost a day with 3,000 threads for one fabric width. So there is still a lot of manual work involved in the production of high-quality selvedge denims. You can find a great selection of these special fabrics in Johann Ruttloff’s store at www.selvage.de.
Here we give you an overview of the accessories you need to sew our patterns.
Specific details, such as the length of the zipper or the number of buttons required, depend on the selected pattern or the individual configuration.
You will therefore find the individual details in your instructions, which you will receive together with the pattern.
This depends on which pattern and configuration you choose.
We are therefore unable to make a general statement on this.
You will find the relevant information either in the item description in the store (for multi-size patterns) or in the PDF instructions that you receive with your pattern.
Yes, that is basically possible.
Zippers with metal teeth are shortened at the top edge, spiral zippers at the bottom.
There are many instructions on how to shorten a zipper on theiInternet – just choose the one that suits you best.
You can sew your jeans with normal sewing thread.
For topstitching the decorative seams, we recommend using a thicker denim thread, e.g.
The topstitching thread is only ever used as the top thread – the bobbin thread can be the same thread that you use to sew your jeans anyway.
It is important that your needles match the fabric.
You should use denim needles for denim fabrics and universal needles for cotton or wool fabrics, for example.
The needle size must match the fabric and thread.
You can find more information in the Schmetz Needle ABC and, of course, from other needle manufacturers.
This also depends on the fabric you are using and how tight you want the waistband strip to be, for example.
It is important that if you use a pattern for stretchy fabrics, you also use stretchy interfacing.
Otherwise your garment will probably be too tight later on.
If you have a pattern for non-stretchy fabrics, but your fabric is stretchy, the interfacing must not be stretchy, otherwise the reinforced pattern pieces may still stretch and the garment may be too wide in that area.
It is best to seek advice when buying fabric or look at the manufacturer’s specifications.
Online, for example, you will find extensive information from Vlieseline about which interlining can be used for what.
Other manufacturers often refer to the information provided by Vlieseline and offer, for example
an “alternative to H200”.
You can find all sewing instructions (only) online on our homepage: Sewing instructions (smartpattern.de).
Here you can filter by different categories.
In the PDF instructions that you receive with your made-to-measure pattern, you will also find the links to all the instructions you need for your project, already in the correct order.
Our instructions are a modular system and are put together individually depending on the selected pattern.
It is therefore not possible to put together a complete set of instructions for your sewing project.
Yes, our instructions are only available online.
This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions.
You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small.
Our instructions are very detailed and created individually for each step.
This means we can put them together individually for each pattern and you only get the links to the instructions you need for your project.
Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish.
To do this, use the corresponding print options in your Internet browser.
In many browsers it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is also available offline.
This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and can still save yourself the trouble of printing out on paper.
We have prepared separate instructions on the subject of “Cutting fabrics and materials”.
You can find them here.
It depends…
Most of the pattern pieces, such as trouser legs, pockets, yokes etc. are needed twice, so the fabric should also be doubled when cutting.
Some pattern pieces, e.g. the fly bottom or the belt loops, are only needed once.
The fabric is then not doubled when cutting.
Pay attention to the labeling on the individual pattern pieces to see whether you need the pattern piece once or several times.
In your instructions you will also find sample layouts for arranging the pattern pieces on the fabric.
When cutting in a single layer, the right side of the fabric should always be on top, as should the text on the pattern pieces.
Otherwise, the pieces may be cut mirror-inverted.
With double-layer cutting, it may be that a pattern piece should be placed on the fabric with the lettering facing downwards, if this is shown in the layout plan, in order to make the best possible use of the fabric.
In this case, mark the grainline beforehand, for example with a pinch, so that you can also see it on the unlabeled side.
The direction of the grain indicates the direction in which the fabric was produced.
It runs parallel to the selvedge.
It is important that you pay attention to the grainline when laying out the pattern pieces so that the fabric falls correctly, patterns do not run askew, etc. The grainline is marked on the pattern pieces with a correspondingly labeled line with an arrowhead.
When placing the pattern pieces on the fabric, make sure that the marked grainline always runs parallel to the selvedge or folded edge.
The right side of the fabric is the side that will later be on the outside, i.e. the “pretty” side.
The left side of the fabric is later on the inside and generally no longer visible (except, for example, with rolled-up trouser legs).
The right side is always on the outside when cutting (for double layer cutting) or on top (for single layer cutting).
The pattern pieces are placed on top of the fabric.
With some fabrics, it is difficult to distinguish between the right and left sides of the fabric – mark the left side of the fabric during cutting, e.g. with tailor’s chalk or a trick marker.
When cutting the interfacing, the grainline must also be taken into account so that the pattern pieces do not warp unintentionally later.
The side with the adhesive dots, which is also slightly rougher, is the wrong side and is on the inside or bottom when cutting.
The pattern pieces are placed on the smooth right-hand side with the labeled side facing up.
The pattern pieces for the interfacing are deliberately slightly smaller than those for the outer fabric.
This prevents the interfacing from sticking out at the edges later.
The interfacing is ironed onto the wrong side of the outer fabric.
The temperature and time required for ironing varies from interfacing to interfacing.
Please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Incidentally, if you have an ironing press at home because you also like to plot or screen print, for example, you can also use it to iron on the interfacing. The temperature is usually more evenly distributed with the press than with an iron and the interfacing adheres better to the fabric.
Yes, our patterns include all seam allowances.
Please note that these vary in width and check the pattern if necessary.
For example, the seam allowances are often wider on the outer leg seams than in other places so that adjustments can still be made if necessary.
The width of the seam allowances varies.
The seam lines are marked in our patterns so that you can measure the respective width of the seam allowances there.
For example, the seam allowances are often wider on the outer leg seams than on the inner leg seams so that adjustments can still be made if necessary.
We generally provide slightly wider seam allowances on seams that may need to be adjusted than on seams that are not affected by adjustments.
For example, the seam at the pocket opening is not altered if the trousers are too tight – therefore the seam allowance there is usually only 1 cm.
However, trousers may need to be made wider at the side seams, which is why the seam allowance is wider there.
Seams that are double topstitched from the right side (e.g. the yoke and seat seams on jeans) also often have slightly wider seam allowances so that two layers of fabric are caught when topstitching and a consistent stitch pattern is created.
We think that the visible topstitch seams should be sewn nice and evenly.
So take your time to do this and it’s best to test whether you like the seam on a scrap piece of your fabric beforehand.
You can use a contrasting colour and thicker thread for topstitching than for sewing, especially for jeans.
You may need to adjust the thread tension slightly and – depending on how thick your topstitching thread is – use a different needle.
Particularly in thicker areas, we recommend locking the presser foot – if possible – or placing a piece of fabric or similar under the presser foot to compensate for height differences.
Use the same bobbin thread as for sewing – only the top thread is changed for topstitching.
You may need to adjust the thread tension slightly.
It therefore makes sense to try out the topstitching on a scrap piece of your fabric beforehand.
Regardless of whether you have purchased a made-to-measure pattern or a multi-size pattern – it always makes sense to try it on! Customers are even ordered to come to the tailor for a fitting before they can pick up their finished garment. We always include the fitting step in our instructions, as early as possible in the sewing process, so that any alterations can be made with little effort.
Of course, it takes a bit of time to prepare the fitting, but adjustments at a later stage would be even more time-consuming. Here is an example of how to try on a pair of jeans.
If your machine does not have a program for the buttonhole or does not sew it cleanly, you can mark the length of the buttonhole on the waistband, slit, etc. and sew the bartacks using short zigzag stitches of different widths.
You can also use the upper transport foot on your sewing machine, which can be particularly helpful with thicker fabrics.
It is best to try out how long and wide the bartacks should be on a scrap piece beforehand.
Of course, your garment, which you have sewn according to a made-to-measure pattern, should fit very well.
But even with the same measurements, slightly different fits can result.
It is also always subjective whether you prefer to wear your trousers a little tighter or a little looser, for example.
Some fabrics give way when worn, others do not.
Three or five millimeters in one place or another can make a difference.
After all, it can always happen that you make a mistake, accidentally enter the wrong size in the configurator or there is an error in the pattern due to a technical problem.
Of course, we try to avoid the latter, but it cannot be completely ruled out.
If you do the fitting at the point specified in the instructions, adjustments can still be made without too much effort and with manageable use of the seam ripper 😉.
There can be various reasons for this.
You can find some possible reasons and what you can do about them here:
If your trousers are too tight, you can leave out the side seams in particular and make the trousers wider:
If the waistband is also too tight, this must also be adjusted.
To do this, you can use the “extra length” at the center front and move the notches for the center front and center back as well as the side seams according to the sketch.
If your trousers are too wide, you can adjust them accordingly by tightening the side seams and, if necessary, tightening the waistband.
If you want to make adjustments in several places, always do this step by step and not make several changes at the same time.
Then you can easily see what effect each change has.
Sometimes just a few millimeters can make a big difference.
At first you will probably think that the pants are too tight and that you have to let out the seat seam.
However, the exact opposite is usually the case – there is a little too much fabric and the crotch curve should be cut out a little deeper, as shown in the following sketch.
Yes, this can be adjusted with very little effort.
Separate the pattern pieces at the height of the red line and slide them parallel, e.g. 2.5 cm on top of each other.
You then have to add this length to the hem.
If the above tips have not helped you, please send an email to hallo@smartpattern.de with the order number and pictures of the garment you are trying on (as described in the fitting instructions) .
We will then try to give you further fitting tips.
