Cover picture

Sew leg seams and blind hem #BE04

I will show you step by step how to sew leg seams and blind hems on trousers in the following video and illustrated text instructions. When working this way, I finish both trouser legs separately before closing the crotch and seat seams. Pockets on the back and front of the trousers should already be worked in at this stage. If you have configured your trousers with seam pockets, the side seams are already closed.

Video instruction:

1. This is required:

Das Bild zeigt die benötigten Teile
Das wird benötigt.

Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:

  • the prepared hind trousers (HH) – 1 pair
  • the prepared front trousers (VH)- 1 pair

Tools and aids:

  • Pins or clips
  • Hand shears
  • Chalk or marker pen
  • long ruler
  • matching sewing thread and sewing needle

2. Iron the back trousers into shape

If you have already ironed your back trousers into shape when trying them on, you can go straight on to the next step.

You can find the ironing instructions here.

3. Close the outer leg seam

If you are sewing your pants with seam pockets and the outer leg seams are already closed, continue here.

If your trousers do not have a knee lining, you must first neaten the inside and outside edges of the legs, the top edge and the crotch seam before closing the leg seams. You can first cut back the front edge of the front trouser part to which the fly facing will later be sewn, according to the marking in the pattern.

The picture shows the front and back trousers pinned together at the side seam.
The side seam is pinned.

I lay the front and back trousers right sides together and pin the side seams flush.

The picture shows the finished side seam,
Finished side seam.

Then I sew the side seam. Pay attention to the correct seam allowance, which results from the pattern.

The picture shows how the seam allowances are ironed apart.
Press the seam allowance open.

I then press the seam allowance open.

Here I like to use my clothes brush or an ironing board again to make the seam nice and flat.

The picture shows how the side seam is ironed apart in the upper area.
Press out the side seam.

I press the seam allowance at the top of the trousers open on an ironing pad or the round end of the ironing board.

4. Prepare the hem

Das Bild zeigt, wie ein gesteppter Saum vorbereitet wird.
Die Saumlänge wird übertragen.

I transfer the hem length resulting from the pattern parallel to the hem edge to the right side of the fabric. (Don’t be surprised that the crease is no longer visible in the front, I took these pictures on a different pair of pants)

Das Bild zeigt, wie ein gesteppter Saum gebügelt wird.
Der Saum wird gebügelt.

Then I turn the pants inside out and press the hem along the marked line.

5. Close the inner leg seam

The picture shows how the inner leg seams are placed on top of each other.
The inner leg seams are placed on top of each other.

I lay the inside edges of the front and back trousers right sides together.

The picture shows how to mark the seam allowance.
The width of the seam allowance is marked.

At the upper end of the inside leg seam, I mark the width of the seam allowance on the back trousers.

The picture shows how to pin the inner leg seam.
The edges of the pattern pieces meet at the marking.

In this position, I secure the upper end of the inner leg seam with a clip or pin. The front and back trousers meet exactly at the marking in the crotch curve.

The picture shows the pinned inside leg seam.
The inside leg seam is pinned.

Then I pin the remaining section of the inner leg seam together. When doing this, I make sure that the knips meet at knee height. From the knee towards the inseam, the back trousers must be stretched to the length of the front trousers. You may have already prepared this when ironing the hind trousers.

I take the seam allowance from the pattern.

The picture shows a sleeve board for ironing out the inner leg seam.
Sleeve board for ironing out the inner leg seam.

I use a sleeve board to iron out the inner leg seam.

The picture shows how the inner leg seam is ironed apart.
The inner leg seam is ironed open.

I press the seam allowances open here too. I work with a lot of pressure and take my time so that the seam is completely flat. Of course, you can also use a wooden brush or ironing wood again.

The picture shows how a quilted hem is ironed.
The hem is ironed again.

By ironing out the side seam, the hem edges are no longer so clearly visible. I therefore iron them again in the side seam area.

Das Bild zeigt, wie ein gesteppter Saum versäubert wird.
Der einfach eingeschlagene Saum wird versäubert.

I now finish the hem edge with the overlock or a zigzag stitch.

6. Blind hem variants

Das Bild zeigt verschiedene Varianten des Blindsaums.
Verschieden Blindsaum-Varianten.

I will show you three different ways to work a blind hem. In the picture you can see, from left to right, a glued hem, a blind stitch with the machine and a blind stitch by hand.

The picture shows various blind hems.
Various blind hems.

I quilted the fine light grey fabric on the left in the picture with contrasting colored thread so that you can see the stitches better.

The machine stitch works very well with a thicker, not so tightly woven fabric, as the stitches do not reach all the way to the outside.

The blind stitch by hand (right) can also be used for very fine fabrics. With careful work, even a contrasting colored yarn on the outside will not be visible.

7. Glued blind hem

I use “Perfekt Saum T40″ from Vlieseline for the glued blind hem. This ribbon is just under 40 mm wide and therefore fits into my 40 mm wide hem binding. The ribbon consists of two thin layers that are held together in the upper third with a blind stitch. They are provided with adhesive dots on the outside.

Das Bild zeigt, wie das Saumband angelegt wird.
Das Saumband wird bündig angelegt.

I place this tape on the inside of my hem edge and fold away the top layer of the tape.

Das Bild zeigt die versäuberte Saumkante.
Das Band wird beim Versäubern mitgefasst.

I then finish my hem edge with the overlock or a zigzag stitch and guide the tape along so that I only catch the bottom layer of the tape.

Das Bild zeigt, wie der Blindsaum gebügelt wird.
Der Saum wird festgebügelt.

The wrap is now folded over and ironed tight. I leave the ironing lens on each spot for about 10 seconds. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and test on a scrap piece beforehand if necessary.

Das Bild zeigt, wie der Blindsaum gebügelt wird.
Abdrücke können verbügelt werden.

If necessary, you can also lift the hem up to the connecting piece to press out any marks that are visible from the outside.

Das Bild zeigt den fertigen geklebten Saum.
Geklebter Blindsaum.

This is what the finished glued hem looks like from the inside.

Das Bild zeigt den fertigen geklebten Saum.
Innenansicht des geklebten Blindsaums.

Here you can see again how the top edge of the hem can be folded away because the ribbon is double-layered in this area.

8. Sew blind hem with the machine

Das Bild zeigt, wie ein gesteppter Saum versäubert wird.
Der einfach eingeschlagene Saum wird versäubert.

First, I finish the hem edge with an overlock or zigzag stitch.

Das Bild zeigt, wie der Blindsaum geheftet wird.
Der Saum wird geheftet.

Then I baste the hem at a distance of approx. 8 mm from the cut edge or pin or clip it in place.

Das Bild zeigt den Blindstichfuß.
Blindstichfuß

There is a special presser foot for sewing the blind hem with the machine. This has a guide along which I guide the outer layer of fabric when sewing.

Das Bild zeigt Blindstiche der Nähmaschine.
Blindsaum-Auswahl

Then I set the appropriate program. My machine has one blind stitch each for woven and elastic fabrics.

Das Bild zeigt, wie der Blindsaum mit der Maschine genäht wird.
Blindsaum mit der Maschine nähen.

I fold the hem over from the inside and place the foot so that the distance between the hem edge and the guide is approx. 8 mm. The stitch works in such a way that several small stitches are stitched into the serged hem edge and then one stitch reaches to the side into the guided fabric layer.

I sew all the way around and the blind hem is finished.

9. Sew blind hem by hand

Das Bild zeigt, wie ein gesteppter Saum versäubert wird.
Der einfach eingeschlagene Saum wird versäubert.

First, I finish the hem edge with an overlock or zigzag stitch.

Das Bild zeigt, wie der Blindsaum geheftet wird.
Der Saum wird geheftet.

Then I baste the hem at a distance of approx. 8 mm from the cut edge.

Das Bild zeigt, wie der Blindsaum von Hand genäht wird.
Blindsaum mit der Hand nähen.

In this example, I use a contrasting colored thread for sewing so that the stitch is easier to see.

I ironed over the yarn with steam beforehand.

Das Bild zeigt den handgenähten Blindsaum.
Blindsaum mit der Hand nähen.

I turn the hem to the outside at the basted seam and work with the witch stitch from left to right. The thread is not pulled tight during sewing, but remains relatively loose.

I start with an approx. 3 mm long stitch through the turned-in hem. Then I carefully stitch through 1 to 2 threads of the folded outer fabric approx. 4 mm further to the right, taking care not to stitch through to the outside.

Das Bild zeigt den fertigen handgenähten Blindsaum von außen.
Der fertige Blindsaum von außen.
Das Bild zeigt den fertigen, handgenähten Blindsaum.
Der fertige Blindsaum von der Innenseite.

This is what the finished, hand-sewn blind hem looks like. The thread cannot be seen from the outside.

Approx. 7 mm further to the left, I make the 3 mm long stitch through the turn-in again and repeat the stitches consecutively. After three to four stitch sequences, I make another back stitch on the cast-in side. This prevents the entire thread from unraveling if you accidentally get caught in it. At the end, I sew the end of the thread into the seam allowance.

10. Finished blind hem variants

Das Bild zeigt die fertigen Blindsaum-Varianten.
Fertige Blindsaum-Varianten.

Here you can see the three variations – glued hem, blind hem with machine stitch and hand-stitched hem – side by side.

If you have opted for pressed pleats, these are now also pressed into the hem area.

If you also want to add a crease to the back of the trousers, you can find the corresponding instructions here.

Here you will find the link to the next step:

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: