Instructions for the pattern “Women’s selvedge jeans HJ06”

We’re delighted that you’re interested in the smartPATTERN multisize pattern“Women’s Selvedge Jeans HJ06” or that you may have already purchased it as a paper or PDF pattern! In these instructions you will find all the information you need to make your new selvedge jeans step by step. Please also take a look at our FAQ – there you will find answers to many questions, tips on buying fabrics and accessories, etc. If your questions are not answered there or you have feedback for us, please send us an e-mail to hallo@smartpattern.de.  Note for customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland For tax reasons, we do not sell patterns to customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland via our online store. However, we are currently setting up our Etsy store smartPATTERNsewing to be able to offer our multi-size and made-to-measure patterns to customers outside the EU and would be delighted if you would drop by there from time to time!

Why the instructions are only available online

We have deliberately decided to make our instructions available online only.
This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions.
You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small.
Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish.
To do this, use the corresponding print options in your internet browser.
In many browsers, it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is available offline.
This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and you can still save yourself the trouble of printing out on paper.

Selvedge jeans and selvedge denim

Whether selvedge, selvage or self-edge – this always refers to a robust denim with a special selvedge. Selvedge denims are produced on shuttle looms, which have their origins in the USA. As demand for denim increased, they were replaced by industrial looms. The Japanese market has bought up many of the discarded looms and is now the market leader in the production of selvedge denims. A special feature of selvedge denims is the smooth selvedge without fringes, which is created by the weft thread always being passed back and forth. The selvedge is white and is secured with a colored – usually red – thread. Selvedge denim jeans are often rolled up so that the selvedge is visible. Shuttle looms are narrower than industrial looms, which is why selvedge denims are usually no wider than 90 cm. The warp threads are often still threaded manually, which takes almost a day with 3,000 threads for one fabric width. So there is still a lot of manual work involved in the production of high-quality selvedge denims. You can find a great selection of special fabrics in Johann Ruttloff’s store at www.selvage.de and also at 1000 Stoff. To really showcase the special selvedge edge of selvedge denims, you need specially adapted patterns that have a completely straight outer leg seam from the hip to the hem. The seam allowances of the side seams are then only serged in the upper area where the selvedge is cut away. You can also use the selvedge of the fabric as an eye-catcher for the top edge of the coin pocket and back trouser pockets or for the belt loops. Let your creativity run wild!

Sizes and measurements

Size selection

Choose your size based on the circumference of your buttocks.
If you are between two sizes, we recommend the larger size.
As you have chosen a pattern in ready-to-wear sizes, you may have to adjust the length, waist and leg width of the pattern if the measurements in our charts do not match your body measurements.
If this is the case and you are not familiar with pattern adjustments and/or do not want to deal with them, we recommend that you order this pattern according to your exact measurements using our configurator.

Order made-to-measure patterns

To adjust this pattern to your body measurements and/or change the design, you can click on the button below and switch to our configurator. We have summarized the variants to be selected for this pattern in the product description. After the order process, we will generate your individual pattern, which you will then receive by e-mail approx. 0.5 – 10 hours later, depending on the order time and volume.

Body measurement table

You will find a body measurement table here that you can compare with your own measurements.
Click on the button for instructions on how to take your measurements correctly.
There you will also find a PDF file in which you can enter your measurements and then save them for yourself.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Finished measurement table

We have listed some of the measurements of the finished trousers in the finished measurements table. The circumference measurements are given as half measurements, i.e. half the waist size etc.. So you can easily compare them with the measurements of existing, well-fitting trousers. Here you will find a sketch where you can see where the respective measurements are taken.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Product description

The women’s selvedge jeans HJ06 have a tapered, modern leg shape, are extra long, have a dropped crotch and low waist. The pattern is specially designed for selvedge denims, i.e. the outer leg seam runs completely straight below the front pockets so that the selvedge edge of selvedge denims can be used as a seam allowance. There are round pockets at the front with a small coin pocket. The back pockets have a square shape – classic for denim pants – and are patch pockets. Another characteristic feature is the V-shaped saddle. The 4 cm high waistband ensures optimum support. The front slit is finished with buttons and a button placket. The women’s selvedge jeans are generally designed for non-elastic fabrics. If you want to use a slightly stretchy material, you need to ensure that the waistband does not stretch out by fixing it with a suitable interfacing.

This pattern is based on the following configuration:

• Leg shape: tapered modern
• Fit: slim
• Waistband height: low
• Crotch depth: deep
• Length: extra long
• Front pockets: round
• Back pockets: angular patched on
• Waistband width: 40 mm
• Waistband type: straight
• Fly: Buttons

General information

Fabrics and materials

You will need the following materials to sew the selvedge jeans.
You can find out how much fabric you need for your size and how long the zipper needs to be in the table below.

• Outer fabric: non-elastic selvedge denim or other denim fabric
• Pocket lining, e.g. thin, firm cotton fabric
• Fusible interfacing, e.g. Vlieseline G 405
• Edging tape 1.2 cm wide, e.g. Vlieseline T12
• 1 button for waistband, approx. 15 mm diameter
• 3 buttons for fly, approx. 12 mm diameter
• Yarn matching your materials

We strongly recommend that you wash the fabric before sewing to prevent your finished selvedge jeans from shrinking later on.
Therefore, wash the fabric in exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) as you will wash the finished garment later and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Take any shrinkage into account when buying the fabric!
Unless otherwise stated for the respective fabric, assume 10% shrinkage, which should normally be sufficient.
With denim fabrics, it can happen that the fabric gets light-colored stripes during washing, namely where creases form during the washing process.
This cannot always be 100% avoided.
However, it helps if you place the fabric in a large bowl or similar in water before putting it in the washing machine and allow it to completely soak up the water.
To prevent or reduce bleeding on colored fabrics, you can add a dash of vinegar to the washing machine or water.

The following length specifications per size refer to the usable material width specified in the left-hand column, assuming that the fabric is plain-colored.
If you choose a patterned fabric, you may need more fabric depending on the size of the pattern.
ATTENTION: In contrast to most other patterns, the usual fabric width of selvedge denims, which is usually between 80 and 90 cm, is taken into account here for the outer fabric.

Print the pattern and prepare it for cutting

You can find out how to prepare your pattern for cutting in the instructions Preparing patterns in ready-made sizes. The first part explains how layer printing works for A4 and A0 files. If you have already printed out your pattern, you can start directly at point 7. This is about cutting out and sorting the pattern pieces.

Here you can see an example of the labeling of a smartPATTERN pattern piece.

In the legend of your pattern sheet, you can see which line type (=cutting edge) you have to follow when cutting out your chosen clothing size.

Cutting

Below you will find some example cutting plans based on the fabric widths given in the material consumption table. If you are using a fabric that is narrower, you will most likely need more fabric and will have to arrange the pattern pieces differently. If your fabric is wider, you may need less length. You can arrange the pattern pieces in advance on a large table or the floor on which you mark your fabric width to find out exactly what length of fabric you need. Remember to take into account any shrinkage values of the fabric!

The pattern pieces are placed on the open or folded fabric panel. The right side of the fabric, or in the case of the fusible interfacing, the side without the adhesive dots, should be facing upwards. You can see from the label on the pattern piece whether you need to cut a pattern piece individually or twice (as a pair or in reverse). You can find more information on this in the instructions for cutting fabrics and materials.

Layout plans

Main fabric – size 38

Main fabric – size 46

Main fabric – size 54

Main fabric 2 – size 38

Main fabric 2 – size 46

Main fabric 2 – size 54

Pocket lining – all sizes

Interfacing – all sizes

Sewing instructions

There are detailed sewing instructions for each step. Below you will find the instructions in the order in which you need them for sewing. Click on the respective link next to the numbering or on the picture.If you like working with video tutorials, you will find one in each tutorial, but currently only available in German. You can display the subtitles in the language of your choice via the YouTube settings.We wish you lots of fun and success sewing your selvedge jeans!

1. Sew front pocket with coin pocket

2. Sew fly with button placket

3. Sew the back yoke and close the back seam

4. Prepare trousers for fitting

We highly recommend that you do not skip this step. Of course you will need some time – about 1 hour – for stitching and unstitching, but it is much easier to make changes at this stage than later!

5. Sew the back patch trouser pocket

6. Sew the leg seams

7. Sew waistband with belt loops

8. Sew trousers hem

9. Optional: Attach rivets

Show your work

We would be delighted if you showed your work in our Facebook group and/or on Instagram! Link us on Instagram with @smartpattern and use the hashtag #smartpatternselvedgejeans so that we can find you.

Browse through our store and discover your next project!

Legal matters

REPRODUCTION AND COMMERCIAL USE These sewing instructions and the pattern (including all texts, illustrations, photos and graphics) are protected by copyright. Any distribution or reproduction is not permitted. If you would like to sell a product commercially that is sewn according to this pattern, please contact us by e-mail at: lizenzen@smartpattern.de