Sewing leg seams for jeans trousers #BE02
In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I explain step by step how I sew the outer and inner leg seams of a pair of jeans together and what you need to bear in mind.
Video instructions:
The video instructions are currently only available in German. Via settings you can have YouTube display the subtitles in your language of choice.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - consider the order for sewing together smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - consider the order for sewing together](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1a-Reihenfolge.jpg)
First I decide whether I want to topstitch the outer or inner leg seam. This seam is closed first. If you want to sew a pocket over the outer seam, for example, you must close it first. In this example, I will topstitch the inner leg seam and start by closing this seam.
![martPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - pin inner seam to cross seam martPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - pin inner seam to cross seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1b-kreuznaht-zusammen-stecken.jpg)
I place the back trousers right sides together on the front trousers. Then I pin them together at the crotch seam. This is the point where the seat seam of the back trousers and the short inseam of the front trousers meet.
![martPATTERN Sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - pin inner seam from knee to hem martPATTERN Sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - pin inner seam from knee to hem](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1c-innere-Naht-unten-zusammenstecken.jpg)
If I sew trousers that are longer than knee-length, I first pin the area from the hem to the knee.
![martPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- tuck inner seam from knee to cross seam martPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- tuck inner seam from knee to cross seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1d-innere-Naht-oben-zusammenstecken.jpg)
In the upper area from the knee to the crotch seam, I stretch the back trousers slightly to the length of the front trousers. This stretch is incorporated into the pattern for a better fit.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - joining inner seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - joining inner seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1e-innere-naht-verbinden.jpg)
Now I sew the seam together with a straight stitch. You can find the width of the seam allowance in the pattern by measuring the distance between the seam line and the outer edge. The pattern also includes corresponding notches at the beginning and end of the seam. In this example, this is 15 mm. If there are no notch markings, the standard seam allowance of 10 mm applies.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - topstitch inner leg seam over cross seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - topstitch inner leg seam over cross seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1f-innere-naht-an-kreuznaht-verbinden.jpg)
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - inside and outside seams finished with overlock smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - inside and outside seams finished with overlock](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1g-versaeuberte-naehte.jpg)
Overlock the inner leg seams together. Finish the raw edges of the outer legs with overlocker or zig zag stitch before joining the seams.
Tip
![overlocked-side-seam-at-selvedge-jeans-trouseres Only the pocket area of the side seam ist overlocked on selvedge trousers](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/overlocked-side-seam-at-selvedge-jeans-trouseres.jpg)
If you are using a pattern for selvedge jeans and selvedge denim, you only need to finish the outer leg seams in the upper area where the selvedge is no longer present.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- iron seam allowance on inner leg seam to front trousers smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- iron seam allowance on inner leg seam to front trousers](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1h-innen-ueberbuegeln.jpg)
I press the seam allowance of the inner leg seam over towards the front trousers, as I want to topstitch the seam on this side afterwards. When serging, the back trousers were on top, so that the beautiful side of the overlock seam is now visible.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - topstitching the inner leg seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - topstitching the inner leg seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1i-innen-uebersteppen.jpg)
Now I topstitch the inner leg seam to the front trousers, first 2 mm and then 8 mm away from the seam. As the outer leg seams have not yet been sewn together, I can carry out this step easily.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - finished overlocked inner leg seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - finished overlocked inner leg seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-1j-uebersteppte-innennaht.jpg)
2. Prepare the hem
If you like, you can prepare the hem now – this is even easier with the outer leg seam open.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions Sew cut trouser hem to denim trousers - mark the finished hem smartPATTERN sewing instructions Sew cut trouser hem to denim trousers - mark the finished hem](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/mark-finish-hem-line-at-jeans-leg.jpg)
First, I mark the finished hem length on the right side. The width of the hem fold can be found in your pattern.
![smartPATTERN Sewing instructions Sew cut trouser hem to denim trousers - press fold over to half width smartPATTERN Sewing instructions Sew cut trouser hem to denim trousers - press fold over to half width](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Jeans-hosensaum-selber-naehen-diy-2b-einschlag-auf-haelfte-umbuegeln.jpg)
Then I press the hem fold over first at the marked line and then again halfway.
The outer leg seams can then be closed.
3. Close the outer leg seams
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - pin outer seams together smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - pin outer seams together](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2a-aussen-zusammstecken.jpg)
Now I pin the front and back side seams together, right sides facing.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - joining the outer seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - joining the outer seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2b-aussen-verbinden.jpg)
I sew the seam with a straight stitch. The width of the seam allowance is also determined by the pattern. In this example, this is 15 mm.
![jeans-hosesmartPATTERN Sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- pull trouser leg over sleeve board for ironing-leg-seams-diy-2c-with-sleeve-board-ironing-outseam-ironing smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- pull trouser leg over sleeve board for ironing](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2c-mit-aermbrett-aussennaht-buegeln.jpg)
To press the seam, I slide the leg over a sleeve board. If you don’t have a sleeve board, you can push a cushion into your leg, for example.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - press apart leg seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - press apart leg seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2d-aussennaht-unten-ausbuegeln.jpg)
Now press the seam apart.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- iron over leg seam on pocket bag to back trousers smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- iron over leg seam on pocket bag to back trousers](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2e-aussennaht-oben-ueberbuegeln.jpg)
![jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2f-ueberbuegelte-naht-am-taschenbeutel](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-2f-ueberbuegelte-naht-am-taschenbeutel.jpg)
At the top of the pocket bags, I press the seam towards the back of the trousers.
4. Stitching on the outer seam
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- pocket bag length feel and mark smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- pocket bag length feel and mark](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-3a-taschenbeutel-endpunkt-aussen-anzeichnen.jpg)
Now I can turn the trousers right side out. I topstitch the side seam from the top to the end of the front pocket bag. Feel for the end of the pocket bag and mark it with chalk
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - overstitch outer seam in pocket bag length on back trousers smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - overstitch outer seam in pocket bag length on back trousers](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-3b-aussennaht-uebersteppen.jpg)
Then I topstitch the seam allowance onto the back trousers 2 mm from the seam.
![smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- tuck seam end at outer seam smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- tuck seam end at outer seam](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-3c-taschenbeutel-endpunkt-riegeln.jpg)
To secure the seam end, I am working with an approx. 8 mm long bar tack in this example. I turn the trousers round 180 degrees at the seam end and sew the bartack with a narrow zig-zag stitch 1.5 mm wide and 0.4 mm long. You can also secure the seam end with forward and back stitches or skip this step altogether.
![jeans-pants-leg-seams-diy-3d-finished sewing leg seams denim trousers - finished leg seams](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/jeans-hose-beinnaehte-naehen-diy-3d-fertig.jpg)
This is what the trousers look like with the leg seams closed.
Below you will find the link to the next step:
If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: