smartPATTERN sewing instructions for back patch pocket of a pair of jeans thumbnail

Sewing leg seams for jeans trousers #BE02

In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I explain step by step how I sew the outer and inner leg seams of a pair of jeans together and what you need to bear in mind.

Video instructions:

The video instructions are currently only available in German. Via settings you can have YouTube display the subtitles in your language of choice.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - consider the order for sewing together
Consider the sequence for sewing together

First I decide whether I want to topstitch the outer or inner leg seam. This seam is closed first. If you want to sew a pocket over the outer seam, for example, you must close it first. In this example, I will topstitch the inner leg seam and start by closing this seam.

martPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - pin inner seam to cross seam
Pin the inner seam to the cross seam

I place the back trousers right sides together on the front trousers. Then I pin them together at the cross seam. This is the point where the seat seam of the back trousers and the short inseam of the front trousers meet.

martPATTERN Sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - pin inner seam from knee to hem
pin the inner seam together from the knee to the hem

If I have pants that are longer than knee-length, I first pin the area from the hem to the knee at knee height.

martPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- tuck inner seam from knee to cross seam
pin inner seam from knee to cross seam

In the upper area from the knee to the cross seam, I stretch the seam of the back trousers slightly to the length of the front trousers. This stretch is incorporated into the pattern for a better fit.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - joining inner seam
Connect inner seam

Now I sew the seam together with a straight stitch. You can find the width of the seam allowance in the pattern by measuring the distance between the seam line and the outer edge. The pattern also includes corresponding notches at the beginning and end of the seam. In this example, this is 15 mm. If there are no notch markings, the standard seam width of 10 mm applies.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - topstitch inner leg seam over cross seam
topstitch inner leg seam over cross seam
smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - inside and outside seams finished with overlock
Inner and outer seams finished with overlock

The inner leg seam is doubled and the outer leg seams are finished individually with the overlock or a zig-zag stitch.

Tip

at pocket area overlocked side seam on selvedge trousers
at pocket area overlocked side seam on selvedge trousers

If you are using a pattern for selvedge jeans and selvedge denim, you only need to finish the outer leg seams in the upper area where the selvedge is no longer present.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- iron seam allowance on inner leg seam to front trousers
Press the seam allowance on the inner leg seam to the front trousers

I press the seam allowance of the inner leg seam over towards the front trousers, as I want to topstitch the seam on this side afterwards. When serging, the back trousers were on top so that the beautiful side of the overlock seam is now visible.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - topstitching the inner leg seam
topstitch the inside leg seam

Now I topstitch the inner leg seam to the front trousers, first 2 mm and then 8 mm away from the seam. As the outer leg seams have not yet been sewn together, I can carry out this step easily.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - finished overlocked inner leg seam
finished quilted inner leg seam

2. Prepare the hem

If you like, you can prepare the hem now – this is even easier with the outer leg seam open.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions Sew cut trouser hem to denim trousers - mark the finished hem
Mark the finished hem

First, I mark the finished hem length on the right side. The width of the hem fold can be found in your pattern.

smartPATTERN Sewing instructions Sew cut trouser hem to denim trousers - press fold over to half width
Press the fold over to half width

Then I press the hem fold over first at the marked line and then again halfway.

The outer leg seams can then be closed.

3. Close the outer leg seams

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - pin outer seams together
Pin the outer seams together

Now I pin the front and back side seams together, right sides facing.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim pants - joining the outer seam
Joining the outer seam

I sew the seam with a straight stitch. The width of the seam allowance is also determined by the pattern. In this example, this is 15 mm.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- pull trouser leg over sleeve board for ironing
Pull trouser leg over sleeve board for ironing

To press the seam, I slide the leg over a sleeve board. If you don’t have a sleeve board, you can push a cushion into your leg, for example.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - press apart leg seam
Press the leg seam apart

Now press the seam apart.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- iron over leg seam on pocket bag to back trousers
Iron over the leg seam on the pocket bag to the back trousers
überbügelte Beinnaht am Taschenbeutel

At the top of the pocket bags, I press the seam towards the back of the trousers.

4. Stitching on the outer seam

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- pocket bag length feel and mark
Feel and mark the length of the pocket bag

Now I can turn the pants right side out. I topstitch the side seam from the top to the end of the front pocket bag. I mark the end of the pocket bag with chalk, which is easy to feel.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers - overstitch outer seam in pocket bag length on back trousers
Topstitch outer seam to back trousers at pocket pouch length

Then I topstitch the seam onto the back trousers with a 2 mm gap.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions leg seams denim trousers- tuck seam end at outer seam
Tack seam end to outer seam

To secure the seam end, I am working with an approx. 8 mm long bar tack in this example. I turn the trousers over at the seam end and sew the bartack with a narrow zig-zag stitch 1.5 mm wide and 0.4 mm long. You can also secure the seam end with forward and back stitches or skip this step altogether.

sewing leg seams denim trousers - finished leg seams
finished leg seams

This is what the trousers look like with the leg seams closed.

Below you will find the link to the next step:

 

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: