Sewing jeans trousers hem #S02

1. Mark the finished hem

If there is still a leg seam open, the easiest way is to prepare a cut hem fold. First I mark the finished hem length, in this example 40 mm, parallel to the raw edge on the right side of the fabric. You can see how wide the turn-in is on your pattern by the distance between the side notches and the hem.

2. Press hem edge

I now iron the allowance to the inside.

Then I fold the fold in half and iron this edge as well. Here’s a general tip: I like to use my wooden brush as an aid and place it on the ironed edge. The wood draws the heat and moisture out oft he fabric, which makes the folded edge stay nice and flat.

Now iron the double fold in place.

The area of the topstitched leg seam is quite thick. So I tap it flatter with a hammer. I put a firm pad underneath and cover it with a piece of fabric. Then I hit the spot a few times from the inside.

3. Close the leg seam

Once the leg seam is closed, the hem can be topstitched from the outsite.

You can also prepare the hem turn-in in the same way as just shown, when the leg seams are already closed. It’s just a little more awkward because you have to turn the trouser leg more often when pressing.

4. Topstitch hem

Now pin down the hem fold from the outside.

When I stitch through the hem, I start at the inner leg seam.

The folded edge is 20 mm wide here. Therefore I topstitch it with 2 mm less width, i.e. with 18 mm distance from the edge with contrasting coloured thread on the right fabric side. The stitching distance from the finished hem depends on the width of the hem fold, as described above.

Last, but not least, the hem is ironed.

Done!

Below you will find the link to the instructions for attaching rivets on your trousers:

• Attaching rivets to jeans trousers #E02

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here:

• Preparing the sewing pattern for cutting
• The cutting of fabrics and materials