smartPATTERN sewing instructions for back yoke and seat seam of jeans- Thumbnail

Sew yoke and back seam on jeans trousers #HH01

In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I explain step by step how I sew the back yoke to the jeans trosers and close the back seam.

Video instructions:

The video instructions are currently only available in German. Via settings you can have YouTube display the subtitles in your language of choice.

Pattern pieces made from main fabric:

  • back pieces (HH) – 1 pair
  • back yoke (HHP) – 1 pair

Tools and aids:

  • pins and/or clips
  • hammer and pad if necessary

2. Sew on the back yoke

back trouser parts
Back trouser parts

First I connect the yoke and back. To do this, I pin the yokeand back piece together as shown in the photo.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of denim trousers - pinning yoke to back trousers
Pinning the yoke to the back pieces

To do this, I pin the yoke on the back piece, right sides together, matching notches.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for yoke seam - sewing the yoke and back pieces together
Sew the yoke and back pieces together

I sew the seam together using a straight stitch with the seam allowance marked on the pattern.

3. Trying on the trousers

Before we go any further, I recommend preparing your jeans for fitting in just a few steps. You can find the instructions here.

4. Finish the yoke

The picture shows the neatened saddle seam
The serged yoke seam.

I finish the seam between the yoke and the back leg pieces with the overlocker. The yoke faces up when overlocking, so that the upper, more beautiful side of the overlocked seam is visible when I press the seam down. Whether you topstitch the seam up or down is a matter of how you like it. The yoke looks smaller when the seam allowance is pressed up and topstitched above the seam.

The picture shows how the saddle seam is ironed.
The saddle seam is ironed.

Here I press the seam allowances down, as previously explained.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - overstitch saddle dividing seam
Topstitch yoke dividing seam

I then topstitch with 2 and 8 mm distances from the seam using contrasting coloured thread.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - attached saddle parts
Attached yoke parts

This is what the two back pieces with yoke look like.

5. Close the back seat seam

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - pin seat seam together
Pin the back seam together

I now lay the back pieces right sides together to close the seat seam. To do this, I first pin the crossing point of the yoke seams so that they lie exactly on top of each other. Then I pin the remaining part of the seat seam together, stitch the seam and finish it with an overlock seam.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - stretching the seam allowance of the seat seam
Stretch the seam allowance of the back seam

The seam allowance of the back seam is now stretched in the curve by pressing.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - iron over seat seam
Iron over the seat seam

I press this seam allowance over to the left side of the trousers, as it will later be topstitched in this direction. Therefore, when sewing the overlock seam, I started at the top of the waistband edge with the right trouser leg facing me.

Tip

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for the saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - knocking the seam flat
Tap the seam flat

The point where the yoke and back seams cross is very thick, depending on the material. I therefore place a pad under the material, cover the area with a scrap piece of fabric so as not to damage the trousers, and tap it flat with a hammer.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - topstitching the seat seam
Topstitch the seat seam

Finally, I topstitch the seam on the left side of the trousers at a 2 and 8 mm distance from the edge using contrasting coloured thread.

6. Finished back pieces

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for saddle and seat seam of a pair of jeans - finished joined seat seam
Finished back seam

And this is what the back looks like with the topstiched yoke and seat seams.

Below you will find the link to the next step:

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: