Sew yoke and back seam on jeans trousers #HH01

1. This is required

Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:

• back pieces (HH) – 1 pair
• back yoke (HHP) – 1 pair

Tools and aids:

• Pins and/or clips
• Hammer and pad if necessary

2. Sew on the back yoke

First I connect the yoke and back. To do this, I place the yoke as it belongs on the back

I fold the yoke right over right onto the back. To avoid twisting the yoke, I make sure that the notches on the lower edge and the back meet exactly when putting them together.

I sew the seam together using a straight stitch with the seam width marked on the pattern.

3. Trying on the pants

Before we go any further, I recommend preparing your jeans for fitting in just a few steps. You can find the instructions here.

4. Finish the yoke

I finish the connecting seam between the yoke and the back with the overlock machine. The yoke is at the top because I want to press the dividing seam down and overlock it and then the upper, beautiful side of the overlock seam will be visible. Whether you topstitch the seam up or down is a matter of how you like it. The yoke looks smaller when the top is overstitched.

Here I press the seam allowances down, as previously explained.

I then topstitch with 2+8 mm from the seam using contrasting colored thread.

This is what the two back pieces with yoke look like.

5. Close the back seat seam

I now lay the back peices right sides together to close the seat seam. To do this, I first fix the crossing point of the yoke seams so that they lie exactly on top of each other. Then I pin the remaining part of the seat seam together, topstitch the seam and finish it with an overlock seam.

The seam allowance of the back seam is now stretched in the curve by pressing.

I press this seam allowance over to the left side of the pants, as it will later be overlocked in this direction. Therefore, when sewing the overlock seam, I started at the top of the waistband edge and the right trouser leg was facing me.

Tip

The point where the saddle and back seams cross is very thick, depending on the material. I therefore place a pad under the material, cover the area with a scrap piece of fabric so as not to damage the pants, and tap it flat with a hammer.

Finally, I topstitch the seam on the left side of the trousers with a 2+8 mm edge distance and contrasting colored thread.

6. Finished back pieces

And this is what the back look like with topstiched yoke and seat seams.

Below you will find the link to the next step:

• Sew patch pocket on jeans trousers #TH04

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here:

• Preparing the pattern for cutting
• Cutting fabrics and materials
• Sew front jeans pocket #TV02