Instructions for the pattern “Women’s chinos HC02”

We are delighted that you are interested in the smartPATTERN women’s chinos HC02 plus size pattern or that you have perhaps already purchased it as a paper or PDF pattern! In these instructions you will find all the information you need to make your new chinos step by step. Please also take a look at our FAQ – there you will find answers to many questions, tips on buying fabrics and accessories, etc. If your questions are not answered there or you have feedback for us, please send us an e-mail to hallo@smartpattern.de.

Note for customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland
For tax reasons, we do not sell the patterns in our online store to all countries outside the EU, UK and Switzerland. You can find a list of which countries are activated in the online shop here. We are happy when customers from other countries visit our Etsy shop.

We have deliberately decided to make our instructions available online only. This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions. You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small.
Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish. To do this, use the corresponding print options in your internet browser. In many browsers, it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is available offline. This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and you can still save yourself the trouble of printing out on paper.

Sizes and measurements

Size selection

The pattern is based on a body height of 168 cm. Choose your size based on the circumference of your hips. If you are between two sizes, we recommend the larger size. As you have chosen a pattern in ready-to-wear sizes, you may need to adjust the length, waist and leg width of the pattern if the measurements in our charts do not match your body measurements. If this is the case and you are not familiar with pattern adjustments and/or do not want to deal with them, we recommend that you order this pattern according to your exact measurements using our configurator.

Order made-to-measure patterns

To adjust this pattern to your body measurements and/or change the design, you can click on the button below and switch to our configurator. We have summarized the variants to be selected for this pattern in the product description. After the order process, we will generate your individual pattern, which you will then receive by e-mail approx. 0.5 – 10 hours later, depending on the order time and volume.

To the made-to-measure pattern

Body measurement chart

You will find a body measurement table here that you can compare with your own measurements.
Click on the button for instructions on how to take your measurements correctly.
There you will also find a PDF file in which you can enter your measurements and then save them for yourself.

To the measuring instructions

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Inch Size (width/length)26/3127/3128/3129/3131/3132/3134/3136/3139/3142/3144/3147/3150/3153/3157/3160/31
US Size024681012141618202224262830
UK Size46810121416182022242628303234
EU Size32343638404244464850525456586062
Waistband circumference7275788185899399105111117123131138146153
Hip circumference88919497101105109115120126131137144151158165
Thigh circumference53555658606264676972747780848791
Knee circumference34343536373839404143444547485051
Heel-instep circumference31313232323333343435363637373839
Side length to waistband topedge100100101101101102102103103103104104105105106106
Inner leg length78787878787878787878787878787878

Finished measurements chart

We have listed some of the measurements of the finished trousers in the finished measurements charts. The circumference measurements are given as half measurements, i.e. half the waist size etc.. So you can easily compare them with the measurements of existing, well-fitting trousers. Here you will find a sketch where you can see where the respective measurements are taken.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Inch Size (width/length)26/3127/3128/3129/3131/3132/3134/3136/3139/3142/3144/3147/31
US Size0246810121416182022
UK Size468101214161820222426
EU Size323436384042444648505254
1/2 Waistband circumference35373840424446495154576064687175
1/2 Hip circumference*46474950525456596265677074778184
1/2 Thigh circumference29303132333435363839414244464749
1/2 Hem circumference17171717171718181818191919202021
Side length to waistband topedge100100101101102103103104104105106106107108108109
Inner leg length76767676767676767676767676767676
*Hip hight to waistband topedge16171718181819192020202121222223

Product description

These classic cut chinos have a mid-rise waistband. There are slanted “French” pockets at the front and classic piped pockets with 12 mm wide piping at the back. The 4 cm high shaped waistband ensures a good fit and optimum support. The front slit is finished with a zipper. The chinos are designed for non-elastic fabrics. If you want to use a slightly stretchy material, you need to make sure that the waistband does not stretch out by fixing it with a suitable interfacing. This pattern is based on the following configuration:

  • Fit: classic
  • Waistband height: medium
  • Crotch depth: normal
  • Trouser length: regular
  • Front pockets: french
  • Back pockets: welt, 12 mm
  • Waistband width: 40 mm
  • Waistband shape: shaped

General information

Seam allowances

Our patterns already include all seam allowances. The standard seam width is 10 mm. We use wider seam allowances at some seams so that the width can be adjusted if necessary. These wider allowances are marked with a notch at the beginning and end of the seam. The seam lines are also visible in the paper pattern for the smallest size. You can determine the width of the seam allowances by measuring the distance between the seam line and the cutting line. The seam allowances are the same for all sizes. If you have bought or would like to buy the pattern as a PDF file, please take a look at these instructions. There we explain how you can show and hide the seam and cutting lines for individual sizes in the PDF file.

Scope of delivery of the PDF pattern

You will receive the following files:

  • The pattern as a PDF file in A4 format (also works for letter)
  • The pattern as a PDF file in A0 format (the width of the pattern is A0 format, but can be longer – depending on how much space is required for the pattern pieces).

You will receive the pattern in two formats and can decide for yourself whether you want to print out the A4 file at home, glue it together and get started straight away. If you don’t feel like gluing, you can give the A0 file to a copy store or an online print shop and have a large pattern sheet created for you. Please note the additional printing and shipping costs incurred by the respective provider. You can open the PDF files with the free Adobe Reader.

Abbreviations

We use these abbreviations in our patterns:
VM | CF = center front
HM | CB = center back
RV | Zip = zipper
SN = side seam

Fabrics and materials

You will need the following materials to sew the chinos. You can find out how much fabric you need for your size and how long the zipper needs to be in the chart below.

  • Outer fabric: woven fabric without elastane, e.g. wool, cotton, linen, corduroy, jeans
  • Pocket lining, e.g. thin, firm cotton fabric
  • Fusible interfacing, e.g. Vlieseline G 405
  • Edging tape 1.2 cm wide, e.g. Vlieseline T20
  • 1 button for waistband, approx. 15 mm diameter
  • Zipper for fly, see table for length
  • Yarn matching your materials

We strongly recommend that you wash the fabric before sewing to prevent your finished chinos from shrinking later on. Therefore, wash the fabric in exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) as you will wash the finished garment later and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Take any shrinkage into account when buying the fabric! Unless otherwise specified for the respective fabric, assume an addition of 10 %, which should normally be sufficient. To prevent or reduce bleeding in colored fabrics, you can add a dash of vinegar to the washing machine or water.

The following length specifications per size refer to the usable material width specified in the left-hand column, assuming that the fabric is plain-colored. If you choose a patterned fabric, you may need more fabric depending on the size of the pattern.

Inch Size (width/length)26/3127/3128/3129/3131/3132/3134/3136/3139/3142/3144/3147/3150/3153/3157/3160/31
US Size024681012141618202224262830
UK Size46810121416182022242628303234
EU Size32343638404244464850525456586062
Main fabric, 140 cm width123126127148169190203206210214230232234222241267
Pocket lining, 140 cm width40404949555558586161646467677070
Interfacing, 90 cm width24242929313135354040474757576464
Zipper length 11121212131314141515151616171718

Print the pattern and prepare it for cutting

You can find out how to prepare your pattern for cutting in the instructions Preparing patterns in ready-made sizes. The first part explains how layer printing works for A4 and A0 files. If you have already printed out your pattern, you can start directly at point 7. This is about cutting out and sorting the pattern pieces.

Cover picture preapare ready-made pattern
The picture explains the labeling of the smartPATTERN cut parts.

Here you can see an example of the labeling of a smartPATTERN pattern piece.

Größen Legende für SChnittmusterbogen von Größe 32 bis 62

In the legend of your pattern sheet, you can see which line type (=cutting edge) you have to follow when cutting out your chosen clothing size.

Cutting

Below you will find some example cutting plans based on the fabric widths given in the material consumption table. If you are using a fabric that is narrower, you will most likely need more fabric and will have to arrange the pattern pieces differently. If your fabric is wider, you may need less length. You can arrange the pattern pieces in advance on a large table or the floor on which you mark your fabric width to find out exactly what length of fabric you need. Remember to take into account any shrinkage values of the fabric!

The pattern pieces are placed on the open or folded fabric panel. The right side of the fabric, or in the case of the fusible interfacing, the side without the adhesive dots, should be facing upwards. You can see from the label on the pattern piece whether you need to cut a pattern piece individually or twice (as a pair or in reverse). You can find more information on this in the instructions for cutting fabrics and materials.

Instructions on the fabric cutting DIY scissors with fabrics

Cutting plans

Main fabric – Size 40

Main fabric – Size 50

Main fabric – Size 60

Pocket lining – size 40

Pocket lining – size 50

Pocket lining – size 60

Interfacing – size 40

Interfacing – size 50

Interfacing – size 60

Sewing instructions

There are detailed sewing instructions for each step. Below you will find the instructions in the order in which you need them for sewing. Click on the respective link next to the numbering or on the picture.
If you like working with video tutorials, you will find one in each tutorial, but currently only available in German. You can display the subtitles in the language of your choice via the YouTube settings.
We wish you lots of fun and success sewing your chinos!

We highly recommend that you do not skip this step. Of course you will need some time – about 1 hour – for stitching and unstitching, but it is much easier to make changes at this stage than later!

The cover picture shows how the trousers are put on for the fitting.

Show your work

We would be delighted if you showed your work in our Facebook group and/or on Instagram! Link us on Instagram with @smartpattern and use the hashtag #smartpatternchino so that we can find you.

Browse through our store and discover your next project!

Legal matters

REPRODUCTION AND COMMERCIAL USE These sewing instructions and the pattern (including all texts, illustrations, photos and graphics) are protected by copyright. Any distribution or reproduction is not permitted. If you would like to sell a product commercially that is sewn according to this pattern, please contact us by e-mail at: lizenzen@smartpattern.de