Preparing trousers with waistband for fitting #F02

1. This is required:

Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:

• back pieces – 1 pair; the darts are already incorporated.
• Front pieces (VH) – 1 pair; the area for the pocket is still cut for the fitting; after the fitting you can cut it off at the marked line.
• waistband (B) – 2x

Pattern pieces from interlining:

• waistband (EB) – 2 pairs

Paper pattern pieces:

• Back (HH)
• Front (VH)
• Waistband (B)
• if necessary, the template for the pocket position (P-TZ HH)

Tools and aids:

• Pins or clips
• Hand shears
• Chalk or marker pen
• Basting thread and sewing needle if necessary

2. Close the seat seam

First, the seat seam is joined. Place the back trouser parts on top of each other, right sides facing.

I use the pattern to transfer the finich seam course. The seam allowance runs parallel in the lower area up to the notch. The seam allowance becomes wider from the notch upwards. Here you can transfer the course to the notch at the center back of the waistband edge.

The pieces are then pinned together and sewn together using a large straight stitch or a basting stitch.

3. Close the front crotch seam

I also lay the front pieces right sides together, pin them together at the short crotch seam and sew the section up to the slit end.

4. Mark the pocket position on the back of the trousers

If you have opted for pants with back pockets, I recommend marking the pocket position on the back of the pants. The positioning can have a major influence on the appearance, which in turn is a matter of how you like it.

I lay the back pieces in front of me so that the right side of the fabric is facing me. I place the template with the notch on the upper edge at the center back.

5. Close the leg seams

Next, close the leg seams. Note how wide the seam allowances should be. You can measure this in the pattern or recognize it by the distance between the notches at the beginning or end of the seam and the edge of the fabric. If there are no notches, the standard seam width of 10 mm applies.

I lay the front trousers right sides together on the back trousers and pin them together at the outer leg seams. In doing so, I make sure that the notches meet.

I then pin the inner leg seam together. Here I make sure that the seat seam and short inseam of the front trousers meet exactly. From this crossing point – also known as the cross seam – to the knee, you need to stretch the back trousers slightly to the length of the front trousers. This difference is included into the pattern for a better fit.

The leg seams are now also joined with a large machine stitch or a basting seam.

You can then turn the pants inside out.

6. Pleat option

If you have chosen a trouser shape with a pleat, you should now fold it and secure it with a few stitches.

7. Prepare the waistband

Before I attach the waistband, I prepare it. First I iron the interlining. If you are using a sturdy fabric, it is not absolutely necessary to fix the inner waistband side as well. However, this is a matter of how you like it and depends on whether you prefer the waistband to be stable or softer.

I now lay the strips right sides together and pin them together at the top edge.

Since this seam is no longer unraveled, I sew together the top edge at 1 cm seam width with a normal stitch size. I start and end approx. 1.5 cm before the long edges. The beginning and end are not saved, as a short piece may have to be cut open again later, depending on how the corners are worked.

I now cut the seam allowance into the shaped waistband at intervals of a few centimeters so that it does not stretch at the top edge. So that the incisions do not stand out so much on the outside, it makes sense to offset them slightly in the two layers.

You can skip this step if you have opted for a straight waistband.

Next, I press the seam allowances open at the top edge of the waistband.

Then I turn the waistband, lay the inner and outer parts inside out and press the seam flat from the inside. I make sure that it lies slightly inwards at the top and does not push to the outside.

I transfer the notches for the center back, the side seam and the center front to the outside of the waistband – if I haven’t already done so when cutting.

Now is a good opportunity to check whether the waistband length still matches the pattern. It could be that it has been altered by sewing or ironing. I also check whether the seam in the front area of the shaped waistband, where the fabric lies in the diagonal grain, is still stretchy.

8. Pin the waistband to the pants

I also mark the center front on the trousers and fold the left front piece inwards at the marking.

Now pin the waistband into the trousers. Make sure that all the markings meet.

Caution: The waistband is too long on the upper side where it overlaps at the front. Don’t let this confuse you – this will be adjusted when the waistband is sewn on later.

Now I sew on the waistband. Here again, a large machine or basting stitch is used.

This is what your trousers will look like when they are ready to try on.

9. Try on pants and check measurements

Now the time has come – you can try on your pants for the first time!

Here are a few tips on what you should bear in mind when trying them on:

• To get an impression of how the pants fit, I recommend taking photos that include at least the three perspectives in the picture above. You should take the photos as straight as possible – i.e. not at an angle from above or below.
• Make sure that the waistband is at the right height. As there is still no button to close the pants properly, they can easily be pulled up a little too high or too low. To check this, you can measure the side length from the floor to the top edge of the waistband (see marking) and compare it with the side length you entered in the configurator.
• If the waistband sits at the right height but is still too tight or too wide, compare the measurement you entered when configuring with the circumference measurement at the point where your waistband now sits.
• If the pants seem a little too wide at the hips, remember that there will be pockets, which – depending on the thickness of the fabric – will also need a little space. It is best to try the pants on again briefly before sewing the waistband on the inside.
• The tighter the fit you have chosen and the less stretchy your fabric is, the more likely it is that the pants will wrinkle at the back of the legs. This is because the pants have an “extra length” at the back, which you need so that you can sit down comfortably.
• Wrinkles sometimes look worse in photos than they actually are. Be sure to take another look in the mirror to see what it really looks like.

If you still have problems with the fit, please send me an e-mail with pictures of how the pants look when worn (see above) and I’ll try to help. This works much better at this point than at a later date.

10. Cut the pocket opening on the front trousers to size

When you have finished trying on the trousers and have made any adjustments to the pattern, you now need to cut the pocket openings on the front trousers. If you have opted for trousers that either have no front pockets or seam pockets, piped pockets or patch pockets, this step is not necessary.

First cut this part away at the corresponding marking in the pattern.

Then cut the two pattern pieces for the front trousers accordingly.

Here you will find the links to the next step. Select the link that belongs to the bag shape you have chosen.

• Sew on trouser pocket #TH01
• Sew trouser pocket with double piping #TH02
• Sewing a single piped pocket on a pair of trousers #TH03

If you don’t want pockets on the back trousers, continue here:

• Sew front trouser pocket with side opening #TV01

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here:

• Preparing the pattern for cutting
• Cutting fabrics and materials