Sew your own trouser hem - Thumbnail sewing instructions #S01

Sewing folded trousers hem #S01

In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I explain step by step how to make a trouser hem with a cut hem turn-in. As is so often the case, there is a wide range of design and processing options. I will show the single and the double folded version here. Have fun!

Video tutorial:

1. Mark the hem of the pants

The picture shows how the finished hem edge is marked.
The finished hem edge is marked.

The most skillful way to prepare the hem turn-in is when one leg seam is still open. First, I mark the finished hem length 40 mm parallel to the raw edge on the right side of the fabric. You can tell how wide the turn-in is for your trousers by the distance between the side notches and the hem or in the pattern.

2. Iron around the hem edge

The picture shows how the hem fold is ironed inwards.
The hem turn-in is ironed to the inside.

I fold the fold over to the inside.

3. Processing variants

The picture shows processing variants with single and double hem binding.
Processing variants - single and double wrapping

The impact can be folded over once, as shown here as “variant 1”. In this case, finish the raw edge, e.g. with an overlocker, and topstitch it at a distance of 35 mm after closing the leg seam. With a double impact (variants 2 and 3) you can save yourself the serging. Here you can fold over the cut edge by 10 mm (variant 2) and later topstitch with 28 mm edge distance. Alternatively, fold the fold inwards up to the pressed, finished hem edge (variant 3) and later topstitch at a distance of 18 mm.

4. Close the leg seam

The picture shows how the leg seam is closed.
The open leg seam is closed.

As soon as the leg seam is closed, the hem can be topstitched through from the outside.

The picture shows the alternative hem preparation with closed leg seams.
Alternative hem preparation for closed leg seams.

You can prepare the hem turn-in in the same way if the leg seams are already closed. This is a little more awkward as you will have to turn the trouser leg more often for ironing.

5. Topstitch the trouser hem

The picture shows the beginning and end of the hem stitching on the inside leg seam.
Start and end of hem stitching on inner leg seam.

When I topstitch the hem, I start at the inner leg seam. As described above, the stitching distance depends on the width of the fold and the selected processing variant.

The picture shows the finished hem variations.
Finished hem variants.

Here you can see the finished hem; at the top the “Variant 3” with double folded turn-in and at the bottom the single folded “Variant 1” with overlock edge.

If you would like to add rivets to your jeans, you can find instructions on how to do this under the following link:

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: