Instructions for the pattern “Barrel-Leg Jeans HJ04”

Design example for pattern Barrel-Leg-Jeans HJ04 in detail view

We’re delighted that you’re interested in the smartPATTERN multi-size pattern Barrel-Leg Jeans HJ04 or that you may have already purchased it as a paper or PDF pattern! In these instructions you will find all the information you need to make your new barrel-leg jeans step by step.

You can also take a look at our FAQ – there you will find answers to many questions, tips on buying fabrics and haberdashery, etc.

If your questions are not answered there or you have feedback for us, please send us an e-mail to hallo@smartpattern.de.

Note for customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland

For tax reasons, we do not sell patterns to customers outside the EU, UK and Switzerland via our online shop.
However, we are currently setting up our Etsy shop “smartPATTERNsewing” to be able to offer our multi-size and made-to-measure patterns to customers outside the EU and would be delighted if you would drop by there from time to time!

We have deliberately decided to make our instructions available online only. This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions. You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small. Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish. To do this, use the corresponding print options in your internet browser. In many browsers, it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is available offline. This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and you can still save the paper printout.

Sizes and measurements

Size selection

The pattern is based on a body height of 168 cm. Choose your size based on the circumference of your hips. If you are between two sizes, we recommend the larger size.

As you have chosen a pattern in ready-to-wear sizes, you may need to adjust the length, waist and leg width of the pattern if the measurements in our charts do not match your body measurements. If this is the case and you are not familiar with pattern adjustments and/or do not want to deal with them, we recommend that you order this pattern according to your exact measurements using our configurator.

Order made-to-measure patterns

To adjust this pattern to your body measurements and/or change the design, you can click on the button below and switch to our configurator. We have summarized the variants to be selected for this pattern in the product description. After the order process, we will generate your individual pattern, which you will then receive by e-mail approx. 0.5 – 10 hours later, depending on the order time and volume.

To the made-to-measure pattern

Body measurement chart

You will find a body measurement chart here that you can compare with your own measurements.
Click on the button for instructions on how to take your measurements correctly.
There you will also find a PDF file in which you can enter your measurements and then save them for yourself.

To the measuring instructions

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Inch Size (width/length)	26/31	27/31	28/31	29/31	31/31	32/31	34/31	36/31	39/31	42/31	44/31	47/31	50/31	53/31	57/31	60/31
US Size	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24	26	28	30
UK Size	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24	26	28	30	32	34
EU Size	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	62
Waistband circumference	72	75	78	81	85	89	93	99	105	111	117	123	131	138	146	153
Hip circumference	88	91	94	97	101	105	109	115	120	126	131	137	144	151	158	165
Thigh circumference	53	55	56	58	60	62	64	67	69	72	74	77	80	84	87	91
Side length to waistband topedge	100	100	101	101	101	102	102	103	103	103	104	104	105	105	106	106
Inner leg length	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78	78

Finished measurement chart

We have listed some of the measurements of the finished trousers in the finish measurements chart. The circumference measurements are given as half measurements, i.e. half the waist size etc. This way you can easily compare them with the measurements of existing, well-fitting trousers. Here youwill find a sketch where you can see where the respective measurements are taken.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

inch Größe (Weite/Länge)	26/31	27/31	28/31	29/31	31/31	32/31	34/31	36/31	39/31	42/31	44/31	47/31	50/31	53/31	57/31	60/31
US Größe	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24	26	28	30
UK Größe	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24	26	28	30	32	34
EU Größe	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	62
1/2 Waistband circumference	35	37	38	40	42	44	46	49	51	54	57	60	64	68	71	75
1/2 Hip circumference*	49	50	52	53	56	58	60	62	65	68	71	73	77	80	84	87
1/2 Thigh circumference	33	34	35	36	37	38	40	41	43	44	46	47	49	51	53	55
Side length to waistband topedge	102	103	103	104	104	105	105	106	106	107	107	108	108	109	109	110
Inner leg length	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74	74
*Hip hight to waistband topedge	17	18	18	19	19	20	20	20	21	21	22	22	23	23	23	24

Product description

The HJ04 barrel-leg jeans have an extra strong leg shape, a regular length and a mid rise waistband. The hem and knee darts accentuate the “barrel” shape. There are round pockets at the front with a small coin pocket. The back pockets have a square shape – classic for denim pants – and are patch pockets. Another characteristic feature is the V-shaped back yoke. The 4 cm high shaped waistband ensures optimum support and a comfortable fit. The fly is finished with a zipper.

The comfortable barrel-leg jeans are generally designed for non-elastic fabrics. If you want to use a slightly stretchy material, you need to ensure that the waistband does not stretch out by securing it with a suitable interfacing or cutting it at 90° to the grain.

This pattern is based on the following configuration:

Leg shape: extra strong
Length: normal
Leg design: side seam and hem dart
Knee darts: 2 knee darts
Waistband height: medium
Crotch depth: normal
Front pockets: round
Backyoke: V-shape
Back pockets: angular patched on
Waistband width: 40 mm
Waistband solution: shaped
Fly: zipper

General information

Seam allowances

Our patterns already include all seam allowances. The standard seam width is 10 mm. We use wider seam allowances at some seams so that the width can be adjusted if necessary. These wider allowances are marked with a notch at the beginning and end of the seam. The seam lines are also visible in the paper pattern for the smallest size. You can determine the width of the seam allowances by measuring the distance between the seam line and the cutting line. The seam allowances are the same for all sizes. If you have bought or would like to buy the pattern as a PDF file, please take a look at these instructions. There we explain how you can show and hide the seam and cutting lines for individual sizes in the PDF file.

Scope of delivery of the PDF pattern

You will receive the following files:

The pattern as a PDF file in A4 format (also works for US-Letter)
The pattern as a PDF file in A0 format (the width of the pattern is A0 format, but can be longer – depending on how much space is required for the pattern pieces).

You will receive the pattern in two formats and can decide for yourself whether you want to print out the A4 file at home, glue it together and get started straight away. If you don’t feel like gluing, you can give the A0 file to a copy store or an online print shop and have a large pattern sheet created for you. Please note the additional printing and shipping costs incurred by the respective provider. You can open the PDF files with the free Adobe Reader.

Abbreviations

We use these abbreviations in our patterns:

VM | CF = center front
HM | CB = center back
RV | Zip = zipper
SN = side seam

Fabrics and materials

You will need the following materials to sew the barrel-leg jeans.
You can find out how much fabric you need for your size and how long the zipper needs to be in the table below.

Main fabric: non-elastic denim, e.g. cotton or hemp
Pocket lining, e.g. thin, firm cotton fabric
Fusible interfacing, e.g. Vlieseline G 405
Bias tape 1.2 cm wide, e.g. Vlieseline T12
1 zipper, length see below
1 button for waistband, approx. 15 mm diameter
Yarn matching your materials

We strongly recommend that you wash the fabric before sewing to prevent your finished barrel-leg jeans from shrinking later on.
Therefore, wash the fabric in exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) as you will wash the finished garment later and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Take any shrinkage into account when buying the fabric!
Unless otherwise stated for the respective fabric, assume 10% shrinkage, which should normally be sufficient.
With denim fabrics, it can happen that the fabric gets light-colored stripes during washing, namely where creases form during the washing process.
This cannot always be 100% avoided.
However, it helps if you place the fabric in a large bowl or similar in water before putting it in the washing machine and let it soak up all the water.
To prevent or reduce bleeding on colored fabrics, you can add a dash of vinegar to the washing machine or water.

The following length specifications per size refer to the usable material width specified in the left-hand column, assuming that the fabric is plain-colored. If you choose a patterned fabric, you may need more fabric depending on the size of the pattern.

Inch Size (width/length)	26/31	27/31	28/31	29/31	31/31	32/31	34/31	36/31	39/31	42/31	44/31	47/31	50/31	53/31	57/31	60/31
US Size	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24	26	28	30
UK Size	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24	26	28	30	32	34
EU Size	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	62
Main fabric, 140 cm width	206	213	216	218	220	223	225	228	230	232	234	240	247	258	266	276
Pocket lining, 40 cm width	29	29	30	30	31	31	32	32	33	33	34	34	35	35	36	36
Interfacing, 90 cm width	16	16	22	22	24	24	27	27	31	31	36	36	45	45	56	56
Zipper length	13	13	13	14	14	15	15	15	16	16	17	17	17	18	18	19

Print the pattern and prepare it for cutting

You can find out how to prepare your pattern for cutting in the instructions Preparing patterns in ready-made sizes.
The first part explains how layer printing works for A4 and A0 files.
If you have already printed out your pattern, you can start directly at point 7.
This is about cutting out and sorting the pattern pieces.

Cover picture preapare ready-made pattern

The picture explains the labeling of the smartPATTERN cut parts.

Here you can see an example of the labeling of a smartPATTERN pattern piece.

Größen Legende für SChnittmusterbogen von Größe 32 bis 62

In the legend of your pattern sheet, you can see which line type (=cutting edge) you have to follow when cutting out your chosen size.

Cutting

Below you will find some example cutting plans based on the fabric widths given in the material consumption chart. If you are using a fabric that is narrower, you will most likely need more fabric and will have to arrange the pattern pieces differently. If your fabric is wider, you may need less length. You can arrange the pattern pieces in advance on a large table or the floor on which you mark your fabric width to find out exactly what length of fabric you need. Remember to take into account any shrinkage values of the fabric!

The pattern pieces are placed on the open or folded fabric panel. The right side of the fabric, or in the case of the fusible interfacing, the side without the adhesive dots, should be facing upwards. You can see from the label on the pattern piece whether you need to cut a pattern piece individually or twice (as a pair or in reverse). You can find more information on this in the instructions for cutting fabrics and materials.

Instructions on the fabric cutting DIY scissors with fabrics

Cutting plans

Main fabric – Size 40

Zuschnittplan für Oberstoff der Barrel leg Jeans HJ04 in Größe 40

Main fabric – Size 50

Zuschnittplan für Oberstoff der Barrel leg Jeans HJ04 in Größe 50

Main fabric – Size 60

Zuschnittplan für Oberstoff der Barrel leg Jeans HJ04 in Größe 60

Pocket lining – all sizes

Zuschnittplan für Taschenfutter der Barrel leg Jeans HJ04 in Größe 62

Fusible Interfacing – Size 42

Zuschnittplan für Bügeleinlage der Barrel leg Jeans HJ04 in Größe 42

Fusible Interfacing- Size 62

Zuschnittplan für Bügeleinlage der Barrel leg Jeans HJ04 in Größe 62

Sewing instructions

There are detailed sewing instructions for each step. Below you will find the instructions in the order in which you need them for sewing.

Click on the respective link next to the numbering or on the picture.

If you like working with video tutorials, you will find one in each tutorial, but currently only available in German. You can display the subtitles in the language of your choice via the YouTube settings. We wish you lots of fun and success sewing your Barrel-Leg-Jeans!

1. Sew darts

cover picture to instruction sew darts into trousers AB02

2. Sew front pocket

DIY-sewing-instructions-front-jeans-pockets-thumbnail-tutorial-TV02

3. Sew fly with zipper

smartpattern sewing instructions for sewing slit with zipper in denim pants

4. Sew yoke and back seam

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for back yoke and seat seam of jeans- Thumbnail

5. Prepare trousers for fitting

We highly recommend that you do not skip this step. Of course you will need some time – about 1 hour – for stitching and unstitching, but it is much easier to make changes at this stage than later!

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for preparing a pair of jeans for fitting - Thumbnail

6. Sew back patch pockets

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for back patch pocket of a pair of jeans thumbnail

7. Sew leg seams

cover-instruction-sewing-leg-seams-on-for-jeans-trousers

8. Sew waistband with belt loops

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for sewing waistband to jeans- Thumbnail

9. Sew hem

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for sewing trouser hem on jeans - cover

10. optional: Attach rivets

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for attaching rivets to denim trousers - Thumbnail

Show your work

We would be delighted if you showed your work in our Facebook group and/or on Instagram!
Link us on Instagram with @smartpattern and use the hashtag #smartpatternbarrellegjeans so that we can find you.

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Legal matters

REPRODUCTION AND COMMERCIAL USE

These sewing instructions and the pattern (including all texts, illustrations, photos and graphics) are protected by copyright. Any distribution or reproduction is not permitted. If you would like to sell a product commercially that is sewn according to this pattern, please contact us by e-mail at: lizenzen@smartpattern.de