Instructions for the pattern “Women’s chinos HC03”

We are delighted that you are interested in the smartPATTERN women’s chinos HC03 multi size pattern or that you have perhaps already purchased it as a paper or PDF pattern! In these instructions you will find all the information you need to make your new chinos step by step.

The chinos are part of the first collection with a heart. A little more about this below…

Take a look at our FAQ – there you will find answers to many questions, tips on buying fabrics and accessories, etc.

If your questions are not answered there or you have feedback for us, please send us an e-mail to hallo@smartpattern.de.

Note for customers outside the EU, GB and CH

For tax reasons, we do not sell the patterns in our online store to all countries outside the EU, Great Britain and Switzerland. You can find a list of which countries are activated in the online store here. We are happy when customers from other countries visit our Etsy store.

The collection with a heart…

… is a joint project by designer Carolin Behrens (formerly Hugo Boss), great pattern labels and the sewing community.

From the 01.11. until 31.12.2025 we are jointly making 12 exclusive women’s patterns available free of charge. We want to show how much creativity and solidarity there is in our community – and do good at the same time.

How you can take part

• Sewing – Realize your project.
• Share – Post your finished garment on social media, blogs or with friends. On the website you will find banners, badges & logos.
• Make it visible – The more people know about it, the greater the impact.
• Donations (voluntary) – 100% of all contributions go to SOS Children’s Villages, securely and transparently via betterplace.org.
  Every donation, no matter how small, helps to support disadvantaged children and families.

Why the instructions are only available online

We have deliberately decided to make our instructions available online only. This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions. You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small. Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish. To do this, use the corresponding print options in your internet browser. In many browsers, it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is available offline. This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and you can still save yourself the trouble of printing out on paper.

Sizes and measurements

Size selection

The pattern is based on a body height of 168 cm. Choose your size based on the circumference of your buttocks. If you are between two sizes, we recommend the larger size.

Since you have chosen a pattern in ready-made sizes, you may have to adjust the length, waist and leg width of the pattern if the measurements in our tables do not match your body measurements. If this is the case and you are not familiar with pattern adjustments and/or do not want to deal with them, we recommend that you order this pattern according to your exact measurements using our configurator.

Order made-to-measure patterns

To adjust this pattern to your body measurements and/or change the design, you can click on the button below and switch to our configurator. We have summarized the variants to be selected for this pattern in the product description. After the order process, we will generate your individual pattern, which you will then receive by e-mail approx. 0.5 – 10 hours later, depending on the order time and volume.

Body measurement chart

You will find a body measurement table here that you can compare with your own measurements. Click on the button for instructions on how to take your measurements correctly. There you will also find a PDF file in which you can enter your measurements and then save them for yourself.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Finish measurement table

We have listed some of the measurements of the finished trousers in the finished measurements table. The circumference measurements are given as half measurements, i.e. half the waist size etc.. So you can easily compare them with the measurements of existing, well-fitting trousers. Here you will find a sketch where you can see where the respective measurements are taken.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Product description

The classic cut chinos have a mid-rise waistband.

There are rounded “banana” pockets at the front and classic welt pockets with 12 mm wide welts at the back. The 4 cm high shaped waistband ensures a good fit and optimum support. The front slit is finished with a zipper.

The chinos are generally designed for non-elastic fabrics. If you want to use a slightly elastic material, you must ensure that the waistband does not stretch out by fixing it with a suitable interfacing.

This pattern is based on the following configuration:

• Fit: casual
• waistband height: medium
• crotch depth: deep
• trouser length: regular
• front pockets: banana shape
• back pockets: welt, 12 mm
• waistband width: 40 mm
• waistband type: shaped

General information

Fabrics and materials

You will need the following materials to sew the chinos. You can find out how much fabric you need for your size and how long the zipper needs to be in the table below.

• main fabric: woven fabric without elastane, e.g. wool, cotton, linen, corduroy, jeans
• pocket lining, e.g. thin, firm cotton fabric
• fusible interfacing, e.g. Vlieseline G 405
• bias tape 1.2 cm wide, e.g. Vlieseline T12
• 1 button for waistband, approx. 15 mm diameter
• zipper for fly, see table for length
• Yarn matching your materials

We strongly recommend that you wash the fabric before sewing to prevent your finished chinos from shrinking later on. Therefore, wash the fabric in exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) as you will wash the finished garment later and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Take any shrinkage into account when purchasing the fabric! Unless otherwise stated for the respective fabric, assume an addition of 10 %, which should normally be sufficient.

To prevent or reduce bleeding on colored fabrics, you can add a dash of vinegar to the washing machine or water.

The following length specifications per size refer to the usable material width specified in the left-hand column, assuming that the fabric is plain-colored. If you choose a patterned fabric, you may need more fabric depending on the size of the pattern.

Print the pattern and prepare it for cutting

You can find out how to prepare your pattern for cutting in the instructions Preparing patterns in ready-made sizes. The first part explains how layer printing works for A4 and A0 files. If you have already printed out your pattern, you can start directly at point 7. This is about cutting out and sorting the pattern pieces.

Here you can see an example of the labeling of a smartPATTERN pattern piece.

In the legend of your pattern sheet, you can see which line type (=cutting edge) you have to follow when cutting out your chosen clothing size.

Cutting

Below you will find some example cutting plans based on the fabric widths given in the material consumption table. If you are using a fabric that is narrower, you will most likely need more fabric and will have to arrange the pattern pieces differently. If your fabric is wider, you may need less length.

You can arrange the pattern pieces in advance on a large table or the floor, on which you mark your fabric width, to find out exactly what length of fabric you need. Remember to take into account any shrinkage values of the fabric!

The pattern pieces are placed on the open or folded fabric. The right side of the fabric, or in the case of the iron-on interfacing, the side without the adhesive dots, should be facing upwards. You can find out whether you need to cut a pattern piece individually or twice (as a pair or in pairs)
from the label on the pattern piece. You can find more information on this in the instructions for cutting fabrics and materials.

Cutting plans

Main fabric – size 40

Main fabric – size 50

Main fabric – size 60

Pocket lining – size 40

Pocket lining – size 50

Pocket lining – size 60

Interfacing – size 40

Intefacing – size 50

Interfacing – size 60

Sewing instructions

There are detailed sewing instructions for each step in the form of pictures, text and videos. Below you will find the instructions in the order in which you need them for sewing.

Click on the respective link next to the numbering for the illustrated text instructions. You can access the video instructions by clicking on the corresponding image.

We wish you lots of fun and success sewing your chinos!

1. sewing darts on trousers

2. preparing trousers for fitting

We highly recommend that you do not skip this step. Of course you will need some time – about 1 hour – for stitching and unstitching, but it is much easier to make changes at this stage than later!

3. sewing welt pockets

4. sewing french pockets

5. sewing fly with zipper

6. sewing the seat seam and leg seams

7. sewing waistband

8. sewing trousers hem

9. sewing the tie belt

The tie belt can be sewn into the lower part of the belt loops, i.e. between the waistband edge and the seam used to attach the belt loops to the bottom of the trousers. It is sewn in the same way as the belt loops on our Marlene or business trousers.
You can find the instructions here.
After you have turned the fabric strip, the seam allowance is ironed exactly to the edge. If you like, you can topstitch both long sides of the tie belt close to the edge. Then you need to secure the beginning and end to prevent fraying. To do this, fold the fabric over twice approx. 1 cm wide and sew in place. Depending on the fabric, you can also cut off the ends with pinking shears and tie a knot or you can buy ready-made cord ends and use them according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
As the small loops into which the belt is pulled are relatively tight, knots or cord ends should only be made/used once the tie belt has been pulled through the loops.

Show your work

We would be delighted if you showed your work in our Facebook group and/or on Instagram! Link us on Instagram with @smartpattern and use the hashtag #smartpatternchino so that we can find you.

Browse through our store and discover your next project!

Legal matters

MISUSE and COMMERCIAL USE

These sewing instructions and the pattern (including all texts, illustrations, photos and graphics) are protected by copyright. Any distribution or reproduction is not permitted. If you would like to sell a product commercially, which is sewn according to this pattern, please contact us by e-mail: lizenzen@smartpattern.de