Instructions for the “Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE03” Pattern

We’re thrilled that you’re interested in the smartPATTERN multi-size pattern “Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE03“—or that you may have even purchased it already as a paper or PDF pattern!

The Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE03 were created based on an idea by Alex (@schnittversteherin). She has “hacked” her made-to-measure barrel-leg pattern into elastic-waist trousers several times. So, after we released our first Easy sewing patterns, it made sense to turn her hack into a pattern of its own.

Unlike the Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE02, Alex opted for a slimmer cut designed for stretch fabrics, with a relatively close fit around the seat. The front pockets are based on our classic jeans pockets with a rounded opening, while the back features large, square patch pockets. The barrel shape is created entirely by the shaped side seam – without any knee or hem darts. Depending on the fabric, the HE03 can look very different – from sporty and casual to clean and slightly more polished.

Like all models in the Easy collection, the Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers don’t have a zipper or buttons. The elastic waistband ensures a comfortable fit and makes these trousers an easy sewing project.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of making your new Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers, step by step. The extensive illustrations and detailed instructions will help you sew this pattern with confidence and enjoyment.

Take a look at our FAQ – there you will find answers to many questions, tips on buying fabrics and accessories, etc.

If your questions are not answered there or you have feedback for us, please send us an e-mail to hallo@smartpattern.de.

Why the instructions are only available online

We have deliberately decided to make our instructions available online only. This saves a lot of paper, because not everyone wants to use printed instructions. You can also zoom in if you can’t see something straight away or the font is too small. Of course, you can also print out the individual instructions if you wish. To do this, use the corresponding print options in your internet browser. In many browsers, it is also possible to save the respective page so that it is available offline. This means you don’t always need an internet connection while you’re sewing and you can still save yourself the trouble of printing out on paper.

Sizes and measurements

Size selection

The pattern is based on a body height of 168 cm. Choose your size based on your seat measurement. If you are between two sizes, we recommend the larger size.

Since you’ve chosen a multi-size pattern, you may need to adjust the length, waist or leg width if the measurements in our charts don’t match your body measurements. If this is the case and you’re not familiar with pattern adjustments or don’t want to make them yourself, we recommend ordering the Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers made to your individual measurements using our configurator. You’ll also find detailed instructions there on how to take your measurements. If you’d like to order exactly the version shown here, use the configuration listed in the product description.

Body measurements table

Here you’ll find a body measurement chart that you can compare with your own measurements. Click the button to access instructions on how to take your measurements correctly. There you’ll also find a PDF file where you can enter your measurements and then save them for future reference.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Finished measurements table

We have listed some of the measurements of the finished trousers in the finished measurements table. The circumference measurements are given as half measurements, i.e. half the waist circumference etc.. So you can easily compare them with the measurements of existing, well-fitting trousers. Here you will find a sketch where you can see where the respective measurements are taken.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Product description

The Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE03 feature a moderately pronounced barrel shape and a long, slightly tapered leg. Their distinctive shape is created entirely by the side seam—without any knee or hem darts.

The front pockets are modeled after our classic jeans pockets, though the curve at the opening is slightly flatter. The patch back pockets have a square shape. The 4.5 cm high waistband with a 4 cm wide elastic ensures a comfortable and secure fit.

The Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE03 are designed for stretchy fabrics with at least 10% stretch. You can either check the stretch percentage with your fabric retailer or simply test it yourself: To do this, mark a 10-cm section—leaving a little space between the mark and the edge of the fabric—and stretch the fabric without using much force. If the marked section stretches to 11 cm, this corresponds to 10% stretch.

The percentage of elastane in a fabric does not indicate how much the fabric will stretch. A fabric containing 10% elastane is therefore not automatically 10% stretch. Depending on the material composition and construction, a fabric with only 2% elastane, for example, may be more stretchy than one with 5% elastane. What matters is the actual stretch of the fabric.

Of course, you can also use fabrics with greater stretch. If you do, check during the fitting to see if you might want to sew the trousers a little tighter.

If you’re using a stretchy fabric, remember to use an elastic stitch on the waistband as well, so the seams can stretch along with the fabric.

Fabrics with a bit of body are particularly well-suited. As a general rule, the more body the fabric has, the more striking the barrel silhouette appears.

This pattern is based on the following configuration:

• Fabric type: stretch
• Leg shape: medium
• Trouser length: regular
• Leg Design: Side Seam
• Knee darts: without
• Waistband height: medium
• Crotch depth: regular
• Front pockets: flat jeans pockets
• Yoke: none
• back pockets: square patch pockets
• Waistband width: 40 mm
• Waistband style: attached wit faux fly

General information

Fabrics and materials

You’ll need the following materials to sew the Easy Barrel Leg. Refer to the table below to see how much fabric you’ll need for your size.

• Main fabric: stable knit or woven fabric with some body and at least 10% stretch, e.g., stretch twill, stretch denim, ponte roma, heavy sweat
• Pocket lining, e.g., lightweight, stable cotton fabric. If your main fabric is lightweight, you can also use this for the pocket lining.
• Stay tape 1.2 cm wide, e.g. Vlieseline T12
• Fusible interfacing, e.g. Vlieseline G 405
• Elastic, 4 cm wide, about 3–5 cm shorter than your waist measurement at the point where the waistband sits
• Matching thread

We strongly recommend that you wash the fabric before sewing to prevent your finished Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers HE03 from shrinking later on. So wash the fabric exactly the same way (temperature, spin cycle, etc.) that you’ll wash the finished garment later, and be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Take any shrinkage into account when purchasing the fabric! Unless otherwise stated for the respective fabric, assume an addition of 10 %, which should normally be sufficient.

If you are using a patterned fabric, you will probably need more fabric so that the pattern can be used evenly!

To prevent or reduce bleeding on coloured fabrics, you can add a small amount of vinegar to the washing machine or water.

The following length specifications per size refer to the usable material width specified in the left-hand column, assuming that the fabric is plain-colored. If you choose a patterned fabric, you may need more fabric depending on the size of the pattern.

All measurements are given in cm! If you want to convert to inches, divide the values by 2.54.

Print the pattern and prepare it for cutting

You can find out how to prepare your pattern for cutting in the instructions Preparing patterns in ready-made sizes. The first part explains how layer printing works for A4 and A0 files. If you have already printed out your pattern, you can start directly at point 7. This is about cutting out and sorting the pattern pieces.

Here you can see an example of the labeling of a smartPATTERN pattern piece.

In the legend of your pattern sheet, you can see which line type (=cutting line) you have to follow when cutting out your chosen clothing size.

Cutting

Below you will find some example cutting plans based on the fabric widths given in the material consumption table. If you are using a fabric that is narrower, you will most likely need more fabric and will have to arrange the pattern pieces differently. If your fabric is wider, you may need less length.

You can arrange the pattern pieces in advance on a large table or the floor, on which you mark your fabric width, to find out exactly what length of fabric you need. Remember to take into account any shrinkage values of the fabric!

The pattern pieces are placed on the open or folded fabric. The right side of the fabric, or in the case of the iron-on interfacing, the side without the adhesive dots, should be facing upwards. You can find out whether you need to cut a pattern piece individually or twice (as a pair or in pairs)
from the label on the pattern piece. You can find more information on this in the instructions for cutting fabrics and materials.

Cutting plans

Main fabric – size 40

Main fabric – size 50

Main fabric – size 60

Pocket lining – all sizes

Interfacing – all sizes

Sewing instructions

There are detailed sewing instructions for each step in the form of pictures, text and videos. Below you will find the instructions in the order in which you need them for sewing.

Click on the respective link next to the numbering for the illustrated text instructions. You can access the video instructions by clicking on the corresponding image.

We hope you enjoy sewing your Easy-Barrel-Leg-Trousers!!

1. Sewing Trousers—Tips & Tricks to get started

2. Sew the front trouser pockets

3. Preparing elastic-waist trousers for fitting

We highly recommend that you do not skip this step. Of course you will need some time – about 1 hour – for stitching and unstitching, but it is much easier to make changes at this stage than later!

4. Sew the back patch pockets

5. Sew the leg seams and hem

6. Sew the crotch seam and the faux fly

7. Sew the attached waistband with elastic and an optional drawstring

Show your work

We’d love to see your creations on Instagram! Tag us @smartpattern and use the hashtag #smartpatterneasybarrelleg so we can find you.

Browse through our shióp and discover your next project!

Legal matters

MISUSE and COMMERCIAL USE

These sewing instructions and the pattern (including all texts, illustrations, photos and graphics) are protected by copyright. Any distribution or reproduction is not permitted. If you would like to sell garments made using this pattern, please contact us by email at lizenzen@smartpattern.de