Sew wedge or strip insert to back trousers #BE06

1. This is required

Pattern pieces made from main fabric:

• back trousers (HH)- 1 pair; yoke or other horizontal seams are already connected
• Wedge or strip insert – 1 pair.

Paper pattern pieces:

• Wedge or strip insert

Tools and aids:

• Pins or clips

Here you can see the two variants – strip and wedge insert – side by side.

The pattern pieces of the wedge or strip insert are marked to indicate which side is sewn to the front or back of the trousers. Pay attention to the marked seam allowances. With the wedge insert, for example, the seam allowance on the side that is sewn to the back trousers is smaller than on the side that is later sewn to the front trousers.

2. Neaten the cut edges

If you want to press the seam at the beginning of the side strip apart later, regardless of whether you are using wedges or strips, the connecting seams should first be finished with an overlock or zig-zag seam. If you want to press both seam allowances in one direction, you can overlock them together after sewing. You should therefore first give some thought to how you want to design the seams.

Topstitch variants

These instructions are about attaching the insert to the back trousers, i.e. the seams shown here in red.

The assembly with the front trousers (shown here in blue) is explained in the instructions for fitting and closing the leg seams. Consider the attached side inserts as part of the back trousers when it comes to joining them to the front trousers.

In general, you should  do all topstitching after the fitting, as alterations may still be necessary.

If you later want to topstitch the front seams along the entire length, as shown here for design variations 3 and 4, remember that you can only sew the inner leg seam together after closing and topstitching the outer leg seam. This can then no longer be topstitched, as you can no longer reach the entire seam with the sewing machine.

Also note that in version 3, where the front trousers are also overlocked, the pocket bag is pressed over to the front together with the seam allowances, which can be very thick, especially with heavier or firmer fabrics. The stitching also makes the front pocket slightly smaller. So before you topstitch, test whether you can still reach into your pocket.

In this example, I will sew the wedge insert on the left trouser leg and the striped insert on the right trouser leg, both in version 1. Of course, you then have to work both trouser legs symmetrically.

3. Sew on wedge insert

For the version with the wedge insert, I will iron out the seam, so I overlock the raw edge here. I now place the wedge right sides together on the back trousers and pin the two together at the connecting seam. In doing so, I make sure that the notches meet exactly.

Now I sew the pieces together with a straight stitch and normal stitch length and secure the seam end.

If you want to press and topstitch the seam towards the insert strip later, as shown in design variant 4, it will not be cut. If you do not want to topstitch it and press the seam allowances open, it must be cut in as explained in the next step.

Cut the seam on the wedge

Only the seam allowance of the back trousers is cut in at the wedge until just before the seam.

The seam allowances can then be pressed open.

If you want to iron over the seam and topstitch it later, serge the raw edges together and iron over in the appropriate direction.

Here you can see the course of the back side seam, which will later be joined to the front trousers. The wedge is now sewn on and you can prepare the pants for fitting.

4. Sew on side strips

As I want to iron over the seam on the side strip in this example later and not press it open, I have not yet finished the raw edges.

I place the insert strip right sides together on the back trousers and pin them together according to the notch markings.

I baste the seam or sew it together with a straight stitch with the longest possible stitch length. Then I iron out the seam or press it over in the direction in which it is to be overlocked later. This also prepares the side strips so that the trousers are ready to be tried on.

If you find that the trousers are too tight or too wide when trying them on, you can distribute the amount of alteration evenly between this seam and the seam that is sewn to the front trousers.

Only when the cross seams, such as the saddle in the back trousers (if present), are finally sewn on and overstitched after the fitting, do I sew the seam together with a normal stitch length and finish the cut edges if necessary.

Depending on the design variant, I press the seam allowances open or in the direction in which I want to topstitch from the right side.

Then the strip insert is also sewn onto the back of the trousers!

Next, the seat seam is closed. Continue with step 6 of these instructions:

• Sew yoke and back seam on jeans trousers

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here:

• Preparing the sewing pattern for cutting
• The cutting of fabrics and materials