Sew leg seams and turnup hem #BE03
In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I will show you how to sew leg seams and turnup hems on trousers. Working this way, I finish both trouser legs separately before closing the crotch and seat seams. Pockets on the back and front of the trousers should already be worked in. If you have configured your trousers with inseam pockets, the side seams are already closed.
1. This is required:
![beinnaehte-and-hem-sewing-that-is-needed The picture shows the parts required for sewing a hem turn-up.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-das-wird-benoetigt.jpg)
Pattern pieces made from main fabric:
- prepared back trousers (HH) – 1 pair
- prepared front trousers (VH)- 1 pair
Paper pattern pieces:
- the template for the turnup hem (P-ZH)
Tools and aids:
- pins or clips
- scissors
- chalk or fabric marker
- long ruler
2. Iron the back trousers into shape
If you have already ironed your back trousers into shape when trying them on, you can go straight on to the next step.
You can find the ironing instructions here in step 3.
3. Close the outer leg seam
If you are sewing your trousers with seam pockets and the outer leg seams are already closed, continue with step 4.
If your trousers do not have knee lining, you must first neaten the inside and outside edges of the legs, the top edge and the crotch seam before closing the leg seams. You can cut back the front edge of the front trouser part to which the fly facing will later be sewn, according to the marking on the pattern.
![seam-pocket-in-pants-seam-vt-rt-pinned The picture shows the front and back trousers pinned together at the side seam.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/nahttasche-in-hose-naehen-vt-rt-gesteckt.jpg)
I place one front and back piece right sides facing, align the side seam, making notches meet, and pin in place.
![leg-seams-and-seam-side-seams-sewn The picture shows the finished side seam,](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-seitennaht-genaeht.jpg)
Then I sew the side seam. Pay attention to the correct seam allowance, indicating on the pattern.
![seam-pocket-in-pants-seam-ironing-2 The picture shows how the seam allowances are ironed apart.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/nahttasche-in-hose-naehen-naht-ausbuegeln-2.jpg)
I press open the seam allowance.
In this step I like to use my wooden brush or tailor’s clapper to make the seam nice and flat.
![seam-pocket-in-pants-seam-seam-ironing-up The picture shows how the side seam is ironed apart in the upper area.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/nahttasche-in-hose-naehen-naht-oben-ausbuegeln.jpg)
I press open the seam allowance at the top of the trousers using an ironing pad or the round end of the ironing board.
4. Prepare the turnup hem
In the following pictures, the legs of my trousers have already been joined. Don’t let this confuse you. The crotch seam is sewn later, after the inside leg seam is closed. I will point this out again.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-marker-1 The picture shows how the stencil is applied.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-markieren-1.jpg)
Marking
I place the template for the turnup hem aligning with the bottom edge.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-marker-3 The picture shows how the upper impact edge is marked.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-markieren-3.jpg)
Then I mark the upper turnup edge across the entire width of the trousers.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-marker-4 The picture shows how the markings are connected.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-markieren-4.jpg)
I connect the markings with a long ruler.
![leg-seams-and-seam-hem-iron-on-1 The picture shows how to iron the upper turn-up edge.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-1.jpg)
I then turn the trousers inside out and press the hem wrong sides together at the marking.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-marker-5 The picture shows how the inner hem edge is marked.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-markieren-5.jpg)
The hem is now folded back again and the template is placed on the folded line that has just been created. Now I mark the inner hem edge across the entire hem width.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-marker-7 The picture shows the marked inner hem edge.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-markieren-7.jpg)
Again, I connect the markings with a long ruler.
![leg-seams-and-seam-hem-iron-on-2 The picture shows how the inner hem edge is ironed.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-2.jpg)
Ironing
Turing the pants again right side facing up, I fold the hem right sides together along the drawn line and make sure not to remove the pressed edge.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-view-hem-lapel The picture shows how the hem turn-up is folded.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-ansicht-saumaufschlag.jpg)
I fold the raw edge of the hem along under the ironed fold towards the left side of the trousers.
![leg-seams-and-seam-hem-ironing-3 The picture shows how ironing is done.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-3.jpg)
I turn the trousers left side up and iron the raw edge left sides facing.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-stitching The picture shows how the hem turn-up is pinned.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-stecken.jpg)
Alternatively, I pin the hem edge to the outer leg seam.
![leg-seams-and-seam-hem-ironing-5 The picture shows how the hem edge is ironed inwards.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-5.jpg)
Then I place the bottom hem edge around the inner hem edge and press it upwards.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-view-hem-lift-3 The picture shows the hem turn-up on the inside leg seam.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-ansicht-saumaufschlag-3.jpg)
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-view-hem-lift-2 The picture shows the prepared hem turn-up.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-ansicht-saumaufschlag-2.jpg)
And this is what the turnin in the area of the inner leg seam looks like. Here you can clearly see how the layers of fabric are positioned.
The turnup hem is now prepared. You can see the turnup on the right, the leg seam in the middle and the inside view or turnin on the left.
To close the inner leg seam, I unfold the turnup hem again.
5. Close the inner leg seam
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-inside-leg-seam The picture shows how the inner leg seams are placed on top of each other.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-innenbeinnaht.jpg)
I lay the inside edges of the front and back trousers right sides together.
![try-on-trousers-prepare-with-divided-waistband-seam-addition-marking The picture shows how to mark the seam allowance.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/anprobe-der-hose-vorbereiten-bei-geteiltem-bund-nahtzugabe-markieren.jpg)
At the top of the inside leg seam, I mark the width of the seam allowance on the back trousers.
![fitting-pants-preparation-with-divided-bundle-inside-seam-pinning-2 The picture shows how to pin the inner leg seam.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/anprobe-der-hose-vorbereiten-bei-geteiltem-bund-innere-beinnaht-stecken-2.jpg)
In this position, I secure the upper end of the inner leg seam with a clip or pin. The front and back trousers meet exactly at the marking in the crotch curve.
![fitting-pants-preparation-with-divided-bundle-inside-seam-pinning-3 The picture shows the pinned inside leg seam.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/anprobe-der-hose-vorbereiten-bei-geteiltem-bund-innere-beinnaht-stecken-3.jpg)
Then I pin the remaining section of the inner leg seam together. When doing this, I make sure that the notches meet at knee hight. From the knee towards the inseam, the back trousers must be stretched to the length of the front trousers. You may have already prepared this when ironing the hind trousers.
I sew with the seam allowance indicated on the pattern.
![leg-seam-and-seam-inside-leg-ironing The picture shows a sleeve board for ironing out the inner leg seam.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-innenbeinnaht-ausbuegeln.jpg)
I use a sleeve board to iron out the inner leg seam.
![ironing-out-inside-leg-seam-and-seam-3 The picture shows how the inner leg seam is ironed apart.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-innenbeinnaht-ausbuegeln-3.jpg)
I press the seam allowances open as done previously with the other side seam. I work with a lot of pressure and take some time to flatten the seam completely. Of course, you can also use a wooden brush or tailor’s clapper again.
![beinnaehte-und-gesteppten-saum-naehen-10 The bottom edge ist overlocked.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-gesteppten-saum-naehen-10.jpg)
Then I finish the hem edge with the overlocker or a zig-zag stitch.
6. Iron the turnup hem
![leg-seam-and-hem-inside-leg-seam-finished-hem-lapel The picture shows the ironed edges of the hem turn-up.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-innenbeinnaht-fertig-saumaufschlag.jpg)
By ironing out the side seam, the break lines of the turnup hem are no longer clearly visible in this area.
![leg-seams-and-seam-seam-hem-ironing-6 The picture shows how to iron the upper lapel edge.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-6.jpg)
I therefore iron the top edge of the turnup hem first.
![leg-seams-and-seam-hem-ironing-8 The picture shows how the hem edge is ironed.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-8.jpg)
Then I fold the turnup inwards and iron the hem edge again.
7. Attach the turnup hem
Sewing the hem into place will prevent it from unfolding later.
![fix-leg-and-seam-seam-seam-fastening-4 The picture shows the turned pants.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-befestigen-4.jpg)
First, I turn the trousers right side up. Then I fold the hem upwards.
![fix-leg-and-seam-seam-seam-fastening-7 The picture shows how the hem turn-up is pinned.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-befestigen-7.jpg)
I fasten the lower part of the turnup with a few pins and make sure the seams meet exactly at the side seams.
![measure-leg-seam-and-hem-hem-measurement The picture shows how the distance between the folded edge and the hem edge is measured.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-messen.jpg)
I measure the distance from the fold to the hem edge and add 10 mm and take a note of this amount.
In this example, the distance between the fold and hem edge is 15 mm, so I note an amount of 25 mm.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-marker-9 The picture shows how the seam line is marked.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-markieren-9-1.jpg)
I place the ruler on the folded edge and mark the amount I just determined (in my case 25 mm) from the folded edge downwards.
![leg-seams-and-hem-seams-hem-wrap-seams The picture shows how the hem turn-up is attached.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-naehen.jpg)
Fold the turnin down again and sew all the way around along the marking.
![leg-seam-and-hem-seam-tuck-in-2 The picture shows how the hem edge is pinned.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-feststecken-2.jpg)
I then fold the turnup back up and pin the hem at the edge to prevent it from slipping. I pin the seams exactly together.
![leg-seams-and-hem-seams-hem-wrap-seams-4 The picture shows how the hem fold is secured.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-naehen-4.jpg)
I fold the upper end of the turnup hem to the side and sew all the way around just next to the previously sewn seam. This is how I stitch the inner fold.
![leg-seams-and-hem-seams-hem-wrap-6 The picture shows the finished hem turn-up from the inside.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-naehen-6.jpg)
It looks like this from the inside. The seam is not visible from the outside.
![fix-leg-and-seam-seam-seam-fastening-10 The picture shows how the hem turn-up is attached.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-befestigen-10.jpg)
To prevent the turn-up from folding down, I sew the top edge invisibly in the area of the seams.
![leg-seams-and-seam-hem-ironing-9 The picture shows how the hem turn-up is finally ironed.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-buegeln-9.jpg)
Finally, the hem is ironed again.
![leg-seams-and-hem-seam-finished The picture shows the finished trouser leg.](https://smartpattern.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/beinnaehte-und-saum-naehen-saumaufschlag-fertig-1.jpg)
This is what the finished trouser leg looks like. I repeat the steps for the second leg.
If you have opted for pressed pleats, these are now also pressed into the hem area.
If you also want to add a crease to the back of the trousers, you can find the corresponding instructions here.
Here you will find the link to the next step:
If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: