Cover hem with lapel

Sew leg seams and hem turn-ups #BE03

In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I will show you how to sew leg seams and turn-ups on trousers. When working this way, I finish both trouser legs separately before closing the crotch and seat seams. Pockets on the back and front of the trousers should already be worked in at this stage. If you have configured your trousers with seam pockets, the side seams are already closed.

Video instruction:

1. This is required:

The picture shows the parts required for sewing a hem turn-up.
This is required.

Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:

  • the prepared hind trousers (HH) – 1 pair
  • the prepared front trousers (VH)- 1 pair

Paper pattern pieces:

  • the template for the hem turn-up (P-ZH)

Tools and aids:

  • Pins or clips
  • Hand shears
  • Chalk or marker pen
  • long ruler
  • matching sewing thread and sewing needle

2. Iron the back trousers into shape

If you have already ironed your back trousers into shape when trying them on, you can go straight on to the next step.

You can find the ironing instructions here.

3. Close the outer leg seam

If you are sewing your pants with seam pockets and the outer leg seams are already closed, continue here.
If your trousers do not have a knee lining, you must first neaten the inside and outside edges of the legs, the top edge and the crotch seam before closing the leg seams. You can first cut back the front edge of the front trouser part to which the fly facing will later be sewn, according to the marking in the pattern.

The picture shows the front and back trousers pinned together at the side seam.
The side seam is pinned.

I lay the front and back trousers right sides together and pin the side seams flush.

The picture shows the finished side seam,
Finished side seam.

Then I sew the side seam. Pay attention to the correct seam allowance, which results from the pattern.

The picture shows how the seam allowances are ironed apart.
Press the seam allowance open.

I then press the seam allowance open.

Here I like to use my clothes brush or an ironing board again to make the seam nice and flat.

The picture shows how the side seam is ironed apart in the upper area.
Press out the side seam.

I press the seam allowance at the top of the trousers open on an ironing pad or the round end of the ironing board.

4. Prepare the hem turn-up

In the following pictures, the hem of my pants has already been finished. Don’t let this confuse you. The crotch comes later, after the inside leg seam is closed. I will point this out again.

The picture shows how the stencil is applied.
The template is flush at the bottom.

Marking

I place the template for the hem turn-up flush with the hem edge.

The picture shows how the upper impact edge is marked.
The upper impact edge is marked.

Then I mark the “upper turn-up edge” across the entire width of the pants.

The picture shows how the markings are connected.
The markings are connected.

I connect the markings with a long ruler.

The picture shows how to iron the upper turn-up edge.
The upper turn-up edge is ironed.

I then turn the trousers inside out and press the hem inwards at the marking.

The picture shows how the inner hem edge is marked.
The inner hem edge is marked.

The hem is now folded back again and the template is placed on the edge that has just been ironed in. Now I mark the “inner hem edge” across the entire hem width.

The picture shows the marked inner hem edge.
The marking of the inner hem edge.

Again, I connect the markings with a long ruler.

The picture shows how the inner hem edge is ironed.
The inner hem edge is ironed.

Ironing

I now lay the trousers in front of me with the right side facing up and iron again at the mark. I make sure not to iron out the first ironing edge again.

The picture shows how the hem turn-up is folded.
The bottom hem edge is folded in.

I fold the hem back down along the edge that was ironed first. The bottom hem edge is then folded inwards.

The picture shows how ironing is done.
The hem is ironed.

To do this, I first lay the trousers in front of me again with the wrong side facing up and iron over the hem again.

The picture shows how the hem turn-up is pinned.
The hem edge is pinned at the side seam.

Alternatively, I pin the hem edge to the outer leg seam.

The picture shows how the hem edge is ironed inwards.
The hem edge is ironed inwards.

Then I place the bottom hem edge around the inner hem edge and press it upwards.

The picture shows the hem turn-up on the inside leg seam.
The different layers of the hem turn-up.
The picture shows the prepared hem turn-up.
Prepared hem turn-up.

And this is what the turn-in in the area of the inner leg seam looks like. Here you can clearly see how the layers of fabric are positioned.

The hem turn-up is now prepared. You can see the turn-up on the right, the leg seam in the middle and the inside view or turn-in on the left.

To close the inner leg seam, I unfold the hem turn-up again.

5. Close the inner leg seam

The picture shows how the inner leg seams are placed on top of each other.
The inner leg seams are placed on top of each other.

I lay the inside edges of the front and back trousers right sides together.

The picture shows how to mark the seam allowance.
The width of the seam allowance is marked.

At the top of the inside leg seam, I mark the width of the seam allowance on the back trousers.

The picture shows how to pin the inner leg seam.
The edges of the pattern pieces meet at the marking.

In this position, I secure the upper end of the inner leg seam with a clip or pin. The front and back trousers meet exactly at the marking in the crotch curve.

The picture shows the pinned inside leg seam.
The inside leg seam is pinned.

Then I pin the remaining section of the inner leg seam together. When doing this, I make sure that the knips meet at knee height. From the knee towards the inseam, the back trousers must be stretched to the length of the front trousers. You may have already prepared this when ironing the hind trousers.

I take the seam allowance from the pattern.

The picture shows a sleeve board for ironing out the inner leg seam.
Sleeve board for ironing out the inner leg seam.

I use a sleeve board to iron out the inner leg seam.

The picture shows how the inner leg seam is ironed apart.
The inner leg seam is ironed open.

I press the seam allowances open here too. I work with a lot of pressure and take my time so that the seam is completely flat. Of course, you can also use a wooden brush or ironing wood again.

Das Bild zeigt, wie ein gesteppter Saum versäubert wird.
Der einfach eingeschlagene Saum wird versäubert.

Then I finish the hem edge with the overlock or a zig-zag stitch.

6. Iron the hem turn-up

The picture shows the ironed edges of the hem turn-up.
The pressed side seam.

By ironing out the side seam, the break lines of the hem turn-up are no longer clearly visible in this area.

The picture shows how to iron the upper lapel edge.
The upper lapel edge is ironed.

I therefore iron the top edge of the hem turn-up first.

The picture shows how the hem edge is ironed.
The hem edge is pressed.

Then I fold the turn-up inwards and iron the hem edge again.

7. Attach the hem turn-up

I sew it in place so that the hem turn-up does not fold outwards later.

The picture shows the turned pants.
The hem fold is folded away.

First, I turn the pants so that the right side of the fabric is on the outside. Then I fold the hem fold upwards.

The picture shows how the hem turn-up is pinned.
The hem turn-up is pinned in place.

I fasten the lower part of the hem turn-up with a few pins. I make sure that the seams meet exactly at the seams.

The picture shows how the distance between the folded edge and the hem edge is measured.
The distance between the folded edge and the hem edge is measured.

I measure the distance from the fold edge to the hem edge and add 10 mm. I make a note of this amount.

In my example, the distance between the fold and hem edge is 15 mm. I therefore note an amount of 25 mm.

The picture shows how the seam line is marked.
The seam line is marked.

I then place the ruler on the break edge and mark the amount just determined (in my case 25 mm) from the break edge downwards.

The picture shows how the hem turn-up is attached.
The hem turn-up is fastened.

The turn-in is now folded down again and I sew once all the way around along my marking.

The picture shows how the hem edge is pinned.
The seams meet exactly.

I then fold the turn-up back up and pin the hem at the edge to prevent it from slipping. I pin the seams exactly together.

The picture shows how the hem fold is secured.
The hem binding is attached.

I fold the upper end of the hem turn-up to the side and sew all the way around just next to the previously sewn seam. This is how I stitch the inner fold.

The picture shows the finished hem turn-up from the inside.
The hem turn-up from the inside.

It looks like this from the inside. The seam is not visible from the outside.

The picture shows how the hem turn-up is attached.
The hem turn-up is fastened.

To prevent the turn-up from folding down, I sew the top edge invisibly in the area of the seams.

The picture shows how the hem turn-up is finally ironed.
The hem is ironed.

Finally, the hem is ironed again.

The picture shows the finished trouser leg.
The finished trouser leg with hem turn-up.

This is what the finished trouser leg looks like. I repeat the steps for the second leg.

If you have opted for pressed pleats, these are now also pressed into the hem area.

If you also want to add a crease to the back of the trousers, you can find the corresponding instructions here.

Here you will find the link to the next step:

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: