Cover for sewing instruction to sew a front jeanspocket with yoke

Sew front jeans pocket with yoke #TV03

In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I explain step by step how to sew the front jeans pocket with side pocket opening and the front inseam. These pockets can be shaped in different ways. I have chosen the rounded shape for the following example, as this requires an additional processing step (7th) compared to the straight shape. The classic coin pocket is attached to the right pocket bag.

Video instructions:

The video instructions are currently only available in German. Via settings you can have YouTube display the subtitles in your language of choice.

Pattern pieces made from outer fabric:

  • Front pieces (VH) – 1 pair
  • Front yoke (VHP) – 1 pair
  • Pocket bag facing (TBB)- 1 pair
  • Coin pocket (TM) – 1x

Pattern pieces made from lining fabric:

  • Pocket bags (TB)- 1 pair

Made of paper:

  • Template for the position of the coin pocket (P-ZTM)

Tools and aids:

2. Prepare the coin pocket

Prepare the pocket opening of the coin pocket
Prepare the pocket opening of the coin pocket

I start by folding in the pocket opening on the coin pocket twice. To do this, I fold the top edge of the notches to the wrong side. Then I fold the fold in half and iron this edge in place too. The double turn-in can now be pinned in place. The edge is stitched through at 9 mm intervals with contrasting colored thread. You can also fold over once and finish the raw edge with an overlocker. The cutting should then be cut back to a width of 10 mm beforehand.

iron around the side edges of the coin pocket
iron around the side edges of the coin pocket

I then press the side edges 1 cm inwards.

Tip

If you are using selvedge denim, you can use the selvedge as the top edge of the coin pocket as an eye-catcher. To do this, fold the pattern piece over at the seam line and place it on the selvedge.

3. Stitch the coin pocket to the jeans pocket

Mark the position of the coin pocket on the right pocket facing
Mark the position of the coin pocket on the right pocket facing

I place the template for the position of the coin pocket on the right pocket flap and mark it with chalk.

Pin the coin pocket to the pocket facing
Pin the coin pocket to the pocket facing

I place the coin pocket on the label and pin it to the side.

Tap the opening edge of the coin pocket flat on the side
Tap the opening edge of the coin pocket flat on the side

Before topstitching, I tap the corners of the pocket opening flat with a hammer. I put a scrap piece of fabric over it so as not to damage the material of the coin pocket.

Stitch on the coin pocket and tuck in the side seam inserts at the opening
Stitch on the coin pocket and tuck in the side seam inserts at the opening

Now topstitch the coin pocket to the sides. Here I choose an edge distance of 2+8 mm and topstitch with the contrasting thread. I use scissors or an awl to push down the seam allowance at the opening edge so that the fold does not show.

Tip:

When changing the direction of the quilting or if there is a difference in the height of the fabric, I make sure to keep my presser foot straight. You can present a piece of fabric or work with a so-called “midwife”. The midwife is already integrated in my presser foot. I can lock the presser foot horizontally by pressing the small button at the rear end.

4. Sew pocket linings onto the pocket bags

overlock the edges of the front pocket facing
overlock the edges of the front pocket facing

I now finish the front facing edges with an overlock seam.

Place pocket facing on pocket bags
Place pocket facing on pocket bags

The slips are placed on the pocket bag with the right side of the fabric facing up. The back and top edges should be flush and the clips should fit together.

I lay the pocket bags in front of me so that the wrong side of the fabric is visible. As a result, the right side of the pocket lining is visible when you look into the trousers and the left side of the pocket lining is visible when you look into the pocket opening. But you can also switch sides so that the “nice” right side is visible when you look into the jeans pocket.

Pin pocket facing to pocket bags
Pin pocket facing to pocket bags

Before topstitching, I pin them to the serged edge of the facing.

Stitch pocket facing onto pocket bag
Stitch pocket facing onto pocket bag

I then topstitch the facing 3 mm from the raw edge inside the overlock seam. I then iron over the topstitched covers.

5. Secure the opening edge on the jeans pocket

Secure pocket opening with edge tape
Secure pocket opening with edge tape

On the front trousers (VH), I iron the selvedge tape on to the opening edge to prevent stretching. For the rounded version, I chose a shaped band with thread reinforcement. This slightly slanted band is easy to shape. If you don’t have any ribbon available, you can also cut a strip of fleece interlining.

6. Sew on pocket bags

Place the pocket bag at the pocket opening on the front piece
Place the pocket bag at the pocket opening on the front piece

Now sew the pocket bag to the pocket opening of the front trousers. I lay the front trousers so that the right side of the fabric is visible. I position the upper pocket bag on top. The facing side faces the front trousers and the edges are flush with each other at the fly. The notch in the front third of the notch edge serves as a guide. The pattern pieces also fit together exactly at the side seam and waistband edge.

Pin the pocket bag to the pocket opening at front piece
Pin the pocket bag to the pocket opening at front piece

I pin the pocket bag to the opening and sew with a straight stitch at a seam width of 10 mm.

7. Seam allowance on the round notch edge

Trim the seam allowance at the round pocket opening
Trim the seam allowance at the round pocket opening

For a rounded pocket opening, I cut the seam allowance in the curve a few times up to approx. 2 mm before the seam. I offset the incisions in the layers of fabric so that they don’t push out as much. By cutting in, the seam allowance does not stretch after turning the opening. This step is not necessary with a straight pocket opening.

8. Turning and topstitching of the raw edge

Iron over pocket entry
Iron over pocket entry

Now I press the seam over to the pocket bag side.

iron turned pocket entry
iron turned pocket entry

The edge can then be turned. I iron the turned pocket opening flat. I make sure that the pocket bag is not pushed to the outside at the opening edge.

pin the turned pocket entry edge
pin the turned pocket entry edge

I then pin the edge in place.

topstitch the pocket opening
topstitch the pocket opening

I topstitch them with contrasting colored thread with 2+8 mm edge distance. Of course, you can also work with other stiching widths here.

Stitched pocket opening with pocket bag still open
Stitched pocket opening with pocket bag still open

Before I fold the pocket bag together, the next step is to gather the bottom edge.

9. Finish the jeans pocket

Fold the pocket bag in the middle
Fold the pocket bag in the middle

First, I lay the trouser leg in front of me so that the right side of the fabric is facing up. I fold it back at the folded edge. Fold the pocket bag with the side edge to which the facing is stitched to the side seam and pin it to the bottom edge.

Pin the bottom edge of the pocket bag together
Pin the bottom edge of the pocket bag together

I stitch this edge together with a 6 mm seam width.

Turn over the pocket bag
Turn over the pocket bag

I then turn the pocket bag so that the seam fold is inside the pocket bag.

Press the bottom edge of the pocket bag flat and topstitch
Press the bottom edge of the pocket bag flat and topstitch

I iron this edge flat and topstitch it with a 10 mm edge distance. The seam allowance disappears inside this stitching and the inside of the pocket bag is nice and clean.

Fixing the pocket opening

Pin the pocketbag at the sideseam
Pin the pocketbag at the sideseam

Next, I attach the pocket opening from the outside to the facing. To do this, I first pin it to the side seam flush from the notch downwards.

Pin the pocket opening at topedge
Pin the pocket opening at topedge

I then push the raw edge of the top edge towards the side seam so that it meets the notch exactly. Depending on the model, this results in a few millimeters extra width at the pocket opening so that you can easily reach in.

smartpattern sewing instructions for front jeans pocket - width to entry at pocket opening
Width to entry at the pocket opening

10. Auxiliary seam on the pocket bag

Join pocket bag with auxiliary seam on outer edge of front trousers
Join pocket bag with auxiliary seam on outer edge of front trousers

I fix the pocket bag to the sides and top with an auxiliary seam at a 5 mm edge distance on the front part and iron everything smooth.

11. Sew on the front yoke

smartpattern sewing instructions for front jeans pocket made from a pass seam - cut out front yoke and front part
Fitting the front yoke and front piece

I place the front yoke over the front piece so that the side with the notch faces the pocket opening. I join it to the front piece at this edge.

smartpattern sewing instructions for front jeans pocket made from pass seam - pin front dividing seam together
pin the front dividing seam together

To do this, I fold the yoke right sides together onto the front trousers and pin it in place.

smartPATTERN sewing instructions for dividing seam of a pair of jeans - sewing the dividing seam together
Sew the dividing seam together

I sew with a straight stitch with the seam width specified in the pattern.

smartpattern sewing instructions for front jeans pocket made from a fitted seam - press the seam allowance on the dividing seam upwards
Press the seam allowance on the dividing seam upwards

I finish the seam allowance with the overlocker. The front piece are on top. As I press the seam allowance upwards, the nice side of the overlock seam is visible.

smartpattern sewing instructions for front jeans pocket made from pass seam - topstitch yoke seam
Topstitch the yoke seam

Then I topstitch at a distance of 2+8 mm from the seam with contrasting colored thread.

smartpattern sewing instructions for front jeans pocket from pass seam - finished pocket
Finished slit pocket made from pass seam

And this is what the finished bags look like!

Below you will find the link to the next step:

If you would like to add rivets to the pockets, take a look at the instructions under this link:

If you’re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you’ll find some links here: