{"id":9906,"date":"2024-03-23T20:37:32","date_gmt":"2024-03-23T19:37:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/anleitungen\/side-access-pocket\/"},"modified":"2024-05-17T10:08:58","modified_gmt":"2024-05-17T09:08:58","slug":"sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01","status":"publish","type":"anleitungen","link":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/","title":{"rendered":"Sew french pockets into trousers #TV01"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wpb-content-wrapper\"><p>[vc_row][vc_column][vc_zigzag][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=&#8221;2\/3&#8243; css=&#8221;.vc_custom_1605735668177{margin-bottom: 8px !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}&#8221;][vc_column_text]In the following tutorial, I will explain step by step how to sew french pockets in various shapes using video and illustrated text instructions. French pockets are also known as wing pockets. They can be shaped in different ways. I chose the squared shape for the instructions because it requires an additional processing step compared to the straight shape. I will explain what else you need to consider with the round bag shape, referred to as banana in the configurator, in the relevant sections.[\/vc_column_text][vc_video link=&#8221;https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=s2UhZN1dKLU&#8221; title=&#8221;Video instruction:&#8221;][vc_column_text]The instructions for the squared bag shape are not included in the video. If you have decided on this shape, please take a look at the following illustrated text instructions so that you know what you need to pay attention to.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/3&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column el_id=&#8221;testseite&#8221;][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_85 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-white ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#1_This_is_required\" >1. This is required<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#2_Sew_pocket_facings_onto_pocket_bags\" >2. Sew pocket facings onto pocket bags<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#3_Secure_the_pocket_entry_on_the_front_piece\" >3. Secure the pocket entry on the front piece<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#4_Sew_on_the_upper_pocket_bag\" >4. Sew on the upper pocket bag<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#5_Seam_allowance_for_a_squared_or_rounded_pocket_opening\" >5. Seam allowance for a squared or rounded pocket opening<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#6_Turning_and_understitching_of_the_french_pockets_opening\" >6. Turning and understitching of the french pockets&#8217; opening<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#7_Place_front_piece_on_lower_pocket_bag_and_secure\" >7. Place front piece on lower pocket bag and secure<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-8\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#8_Sew_the_pocket_bags_together\" >8. Sew the pocket bags together<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-9\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#9_Pleat_option\" >9. Pleat option<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-10\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#10_Auxiliary_seam_on_the_french_pockets_bag\" >10. Auxiliary seam on the french pockets&#8217; bag<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-11\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#11_Topstitching_with_angular_edge\" >11. Topstitching with angular edge<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-12\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-pockets-into-trousers-tv01\/#12_Finished_french_pockets\" >12. Finished french pockets<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"1_This_is_required\"><\/span>1. This is required<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6159&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>front pieces (VH) &#8211; 1 pair (the pocket opening is already cut away here &#8211; see last point of the fitting instructions)<\/li>\n<li>upper pocket bag facing (TBOB VH) &#8211; 1 pair<\/li>\n<li>lower pocket bag facing (TBUB VH) &#8211; 1 pair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Pattern pieces made from lining fabric:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>upper pocket bag (TBO VH) &#8211; 1 pair<\/li>\n<li>lower pocket bag (TBU VH) &#8211; 1 pair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Tools and aids:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>pins or clips<\/li>\n<li>scissors<\/li>\n<li>edge tape (for straight pocket opening: e.g. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vlieseline.com\/Products\/Tapes\/Edge%20Tape\/\">T20 from Vlieseline<\/a>; for shaped and angular pocket opening: e.g. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vlieseline.com\/Products\/Tapes\/Bias%20Tape\">T12 from Vlieseline<\/a>)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"2_Sew_pocket_facings_onto_pocket_bags\"><\/span>2. Sew pocket facings onto pocket bags<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7886&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The front edges of the upper and lower pocket bag facing are finished with an overlock or zigzag seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6103&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Place the top facing on the top pocket bag and the bottom facing on the bottom pocket bag so that the shape and notches match.<\/p>\n<p>In this example the right side of the pocket bag fabric will be seen inside the trousers. If you choose to have the right side of the pocket bag facing inside your pockets, you have to align the pieces the opposite way.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6105&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The facing is stitched onto the pocket lining right side facing up by 3 mm distance to the edge and within the overlock seam. If you are using lightweight fabric you can also choose to fold the edge over by 10mm and omit finshing it with the overlock machine.<\/p>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_Secure_the_pocket_entry_on_the_front_piece\"><\/span>3. Secure the pocket entry on the front piece<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6117&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The edge tape is ironed onto the the pocket opening. This will prevent the fabric from stretching. If you don&#8217;t have any ribbon available, you can also cut a strip of fusible interfacing.<\/p>\n<p>In the picture you can see how the tape is worked in two pieces on the squared pocket shape and ironed onto the opening. Next to it you can see the straight tape that is suitable for the straight pocket, and last you can see how you can lay the shaped tape to make it fit to the rounded edge.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"4_Sew_on_the_upper_pocket_bag\"><\/span>4. Sew on the upper pocket bag<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6163&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The upper pocket bag is placed with the facing side on the right side of the front trousers. The opening edges are matching, pinned in place and sewn together with a straight stitch at a seam allowane of 1 cm.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"5_Seam_allowance_for_a_squared_or_rounded_pocket_opening\"><\/span>5. Seam allowance for a squared or rounded pocket opening<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6121&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]With the square pocket shape, the seam allowance is cut exactly in the corner to just right before the seam. Be careful not to cut into the seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6123&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]For a round or shaped pocket opening it is important to cut the seam allowance 3 to 5 times up to approx. 2 mm before the seam. It is also advantageous to offset the incisions in the layers so that they are less visible on the outside. As the square pocket opening is slightly rounded at the top, the seam allowance is also cut into this shape. This step is not necessary with the straight pocket opening.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"6_Turning_and_understitching_of_the_french_pockets_opening\"><\/span>6. Turning and understitching of the french pockets&#8217; opening<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6115&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Before you turn the pocket opening, you should iron it over.[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Depending on your preferences, the pocket opening can be finished with or without visible ropstitching. If you omit the topstitching, an understitch on the facing side ensures greater durability. When the trousers are positioned as shown in the picture, the facing is stitched to the seam allowance approx. 2 mm from the seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6113&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If you want a topstitch on the front of your trouser pocket, topstitch the pocket opening at a distance of 2 to 6 mm from the edge on the right-hand side.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"7_Place_front_piece_on_lower_pocket_bag_and_secure\"><\/span>7. Place front piece on lower pocket bag and secure<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6133&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The front trousers are now placed with the opening edge on the lower pocket bag, notches matching. The right side of the fabric of the front trousers and the facing of the lower pocket bag are visible from the top.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6135&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Now fasten the raw edge with pins or clips so that the facing and front trousers form a harmonious line at the waist edge and side seam. Secure at the two marked points with a few stitches so that nothing can slip out of place.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"8_Sew_the_pocket_bags_together\"><\/span>8. Sew the pocket bags together<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6131&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Now the pocket bag still needs to be closed. To do this, the top and bottom pocket bags are pinned together.<\/p>\n<p>The edges of the pocket bags no longer fit together exactly after all the workingsteps. It is important that the edges are not pulled together exactly, but are pinned together smoothly. If necessary, you can trim the edges before sewing them together.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6129&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The seam is closed with a straight stitch and the raw edges are finished with an overlock seam or a zigzag stitch.<\/p>\n<p>You can also close the edge with a french seam. If you would like to know how to do this, take a look at the <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-front-jeans-pocket-tv02\/\">instructions for front jeans pockets<\/a>.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"9_Pleat_option\"><\/span>9. Pleat option<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6111&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If your trouser shape has a pleat at the waist, this should now be folded and secured in the next step.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"10_Auxiliary_seam_on_the_french_pockets_bag\"><\/span>10. Auxiliary seam on the french pockets&#8217; bag<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6127&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Now everything is being ironed out again. The pocket bag can be pinned at the top edge and side seam and joined to the front trousers by stitching in place within the seam allowance.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"11_Topstitching_with_angular_edge\"><\/span>11. Topstitching with angular edge<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6137&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Depending on how you like it, you can topstitch the lower, short section of the square trouser pocket at the front with a decorative seam. It is best to try it out first to see if the pocket opening is still large enough.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"12_Finished_french_pockets\"><\/span>12. Finished french pockets<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;6119&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]This is what the finished front trouser pockets look like &#8211; here in the square shape.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]Here you will find the links to the next step<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>for the chinos: <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sewing-fly-with-zipper-z01\/\">sewing fly with zipper #Z01<\/a><\/li>\n<li>for the jeans with zipper: <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-fly-with-zipper-in-jeans-trousers-z02\/\">Sew fly with zipper in jeans trousers #Z02<\/a><\/li>\n<li>for jeans with button placket: <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-fly-with-concealed-button-placket-in-jeans-trousers-z03\/\">Sewing fly with concealed button placket in jeans trousers #Z03<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you&#8217;re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you&#8217;ll find some links here:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-the-sewing-pattern-for-cutting\/\">Preparing the pattern for cutting<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/the-cutting-of-fabrics-and-materials\/\">Cutting fabrics and materials<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"featured_media":2723,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[538,539,540,556,396,398],"tags":[555,590],"class_list":["post-9906","anleitungen","type-anleitungen","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sewing","category-chino-en","category-marlene-en","category-trouser-pocket","category-instructions","category-trousers","tag-sew-side-pocket","tag-download-schnittmuster-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Sew french pockets into trousers #TV01 | smartPATTERN<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In this instructions explain step by step how to sew french pockets into front trousers step-by-step picture or video instructions.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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