{"id":9839,"date":"2024-03-23T20:30:38","date_gmt":"2024-03-23T19:30:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/anleitungen\/leg-seams-and-quilted-hem-seams-be05\/"},"modified":"2024-05-17T11:10:38","modified_gmt":"2024-05-17T10:10:38","slug":"sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05","status":"publish","type":"anleitungen","link":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/","title":{"rendered":"Sew leg seams and topstiched hem #BE05"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wpb-content-wrapper\"><p>[vc_row][vc_column][vc_zigzag][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=&#8221;2\/3&#8243; css=&#8221;.vc_custom_1605735668177{margin-bottom: 8px !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}&#8221;][vc_column_text]I will show you step by step how to sew leg seams and topstitched hems on trousers in the following video and illustrated text instructions. I finish both trouser legs separately before closing the crotch and seat seams. Pockets on the back and front of the trousers should already be sewn in at this stage. If you have configured your trousers with inseam pockets, the side seams are already closed. I will show you two different hem variations, one with a single folded hem and one with a double fold.[\/vc_column_text][vc_video link=&#8221;https:\/\/youtu.be\/mGkfRONLBZw&#8221; title=&#8221;Video instruction:&#8221;][vc_column_text][\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/3&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column el_id=&#8221;testseite&#8221;][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_85 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-white ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/#1_This_is_required\" >1. This is required:<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/#2_Iron_the_back_trousers_into_shape\" >2. Iron the back trousers into shape<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/#3_Close_the_outer_leg_seam\" >3. Close the outer leg seam<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/#4_Prepare_the_topstitched_hem\" >4. Prepare the topstitched hem<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/#5_Close_the_inner_leg_seam\" >5. Close the inner leg seam<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-topstiched-hem-be05\/#6_Sew_topsiched_hem\" >6. Sew topsiched hem<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"1_This_is_required\"><\/span>1. This is required:<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7603&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Pattern pieces made from main fabric:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the prepared back trousers (HH) &#8211; 1 pair<\/li>\n<li>the prepared front trousers (VH)- 1 pair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Tools and aids:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>pins or clips<\/li>\n<li>scissors<\/li>\n<li>chalk or fabric marker<\/li>\n<li>long ruler<\/li>\n<li>matching sewing thread and hand sewing needle<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"2_Iron_the_back_trousers_into_shape\"><\/span>2. Iron the back trousers into shape<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]If you have already ironed your back trousers into shape when trying them on, you can go straight on to the next step.<\/p>\n<p>You can find the ironing instructions <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-classic-trousers-for-fitting-f03\/\">here<\/a> (step 3).[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_Close_the_outer_leg_seam\"><\/span>3. Close the outer leg seam<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]If you are sewing your trousers with inseam pockets and the outer leg seams are already closed, continue with step 4.<br \/>\nIf your trousers do not have knee lining, you must neaten the inside and outside edges of the legs, the top edge and the crotch seam before closing the leg seams. You can cut back the front edge of the front trouser part to which the fly facing will be attached, according to the marking in the pattern.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7445&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I place the front and back trousers right sides facing and pin the side seams in place.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7595&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I sew the side seam, using the seam allowance indicated on the pattern.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7359&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I press the seam allowance open.<\/p>\n<p>I like to use my clothes brush or a tailor&#8217;s clapper to make the seam crisp. [\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7365&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I press the seam allowance at the top of the trousers open on an ironing pad or the round end of the ironing board.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"4_Prepare_the_topstitched_hem\"><\/span>4. Prepare the topstitched hem<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7609&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I transfer the hem length resulting from the pattern parallel to the hem edge to the right side of the fabric. (Don&#8217;t be surprised that the crease is no longer visible in the front, I took these pictures on a different pair of trousers)[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7607&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]For the single folded version, I turn the trousers wrong side up and press the hem on the marked line.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7611&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]For the double folded version, I mark half of the fold width. You can also mark just 1 cm away from the hem, if you want your hem topstitching to be wider.<\/p>\n<p>I turn the trouser leg wrong side up.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7690&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]First I press the edge at the bottom marking and then at the finished hem line.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"5_Close_the_inner_leg_seam\"><\/span>5. Close the inner leg seam<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7483&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I place the inside edges of the front and back trousers right sides together.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7229&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]At the upper end of the inside leg seam, I mark the width of the seam allowance on the back trousers.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7215&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]In this position, I secure the upper end of the inner leg seam with a clip or pin. The front and back trousers meet exactly at the marking in the crotch curve.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7217&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I pin the remaining section of the inner leg seam in place and make sure that the knotches match at knee hight. From the knee towards the crotch seam, the back trousers must be stretched to the length of the front trousers. You may have prepared this when ironing the back trousers for fitting.<\/p>\n<p>I sew using the seam allowance indicated on the pattern.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7485&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I use a armboard to press the inner leg seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7489&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I press the seam allowances open and work with a lot of pressure and take my time so that the seam is completely flat. Of course you can also use a wooden brush or tailor&#8217;s clapper again.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7693&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Due to pressing the side seam, the hem edges are possibly not visible anymore. Therefore I press them again.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7621&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]For the single turned-in hem, I finish the edge with the overlock or a zigzag stitch.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"6_Sew_topsiched_hem\"><\/span>6. Sew topsiched hem<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7623&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The hem edge can now be pinned.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7625&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I start and finish topstitching at the inner leg seam.<\/p>\n<p>With the single turned-in hem, my topstitching width is approx. 5 mm narrower than my turned-in width. With a hem turn-in width of 40 mm, this would be 35 mm edge distance when topstitching.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7627&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]For the double turned-in hem, I choose my stitching width so I topstitch the turn-in by 2 mm distance from the upper folded edge.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7629&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Here you can see the finished hem; at the top the version with double folded turn-in and below the single folded version with overlocked edge.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]If you have opted for pressed pleats, these are now also pressed into the hem.<\/p>\n<p>If you also want to add a crease to the back of the trousers, you can find the corresponding instructions <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/ironing-creases-into-trousers-add02\/\">here<\/a>.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]Here you will find the link to the next step:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sewing-fly-with-zipper-in-classic-trousers-z04\/\">Sewing fly with zipper in classic trousers #Z04<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you&#8217;re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you&#8217;ll find some links here:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-the-sewing-pattern-for-cutting\/\">Preparing the pattern for cutting<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/the-cutting-of-fabrics-and-materials\/\">Cutting fabrics and materials<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"featured_media":7814,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[396,398,399,538,540,573],"tags":[405],"class_list":["post-9839","anleitungen","type-anleitungen","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-instructions","category-trousers","category-trousers-en","category-sewing","category-marlene-en","category-leg-seams","tag-sew-trouser-hem"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.8 - 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