{"id":9831,"date":"2024-03-23T20:30:38","date_gmt":"2024-03-23T19:30:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/anleitungen\/pleat-into-pants-bf01\/"},"modified":"2024-05-16T13:54:40","modified_gmt":"2024-05-16T12:54:40","slug":"insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01","status":"publish","type":"anleitungen","link":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/","title":{"rendered":"Insert pleats into trousers #BF01"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wpb-content-wrapper\"><p>[vc_row][vc_column][vc_zigzag][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=&#8221;2\/3&#8243; css=&#8221;.vc_custom_1605735668177{margin-bottom: 8px !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}&#8221;][vc_column_text]In the following article and the step-by-step video tutorial, I explain how I work pleats into trousers in different ways and what types of pleats there are. Pleats are a great design element for trousers, which also give them more width and\u00a0 make them more comfortable.<\/p>\n<p>Enjoy sewing![\/vc_column_text][vc_video link=&#8221;https:\/\/youtu.be\/OPbS0-pnoWE&#8221; title=&#8221;Video tutorial:&#8221;][vc_column_text][\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/3&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column el_id=&#8221;testseite&#8221;][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_80 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-white ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/#1_This_is_required\" >1. This is required:<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/#2_Different_types_of_pleats\" >2. Different types of pleats<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/#3_Prepare_open_pleats_for_fitting\" >3. Prepare open pleats for fitting<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/#4_Prepare_closed_pleats_for_fitting\" >4. Prepare closed pleats for fitting<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/#5_Sew_closed_pleats_after_fitting\" >5. Sew closed pleats after fitting<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"1_This_is_required\"><\/span>1. This is required:<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7103&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Pattern pieces made from shell fabric:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>front trousers (VH) &#8211; 1 pair<br \/>\nTo explain both options, you can see a piece with and a piece without a pleat here.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Paper pattern pieces<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the template for the pleats (P-ZF)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Tools and aids:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>ruler<\/li>\n<li>chalk or fabric marker<\/li>\n<li>basting thread and hand sewing needle<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"2_Different_types_of_pleats\"><\/span>2. Different types of pleats<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]First, I would like to show you the most common types of pleats:[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7041&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]On the right side you can see the so-called one- or single-sided pleat. They can be placed with the opening to the right or the left.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7043&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If you have more than one of these pleats, you can also place them in a way that they overlap, as you can see here.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7045&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The type of pleat in the middle is called a box pleat. One half of the pleat is folded to the left and the other to the right, both to the inside.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7047&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The pinch pleat on the left is similar, but the pleat halves are placed on the outside. The box pleat looks the same on the inside as the pinch pleat does on the outside. In my opinion, however, this pleat shape does not play a role in trousers.<\/p>\n<p>I have worked the pleats &#8220;open&#8221;. They are attached when the waistband is stitched on.<\/p>\n<p>You can also stitch them for a few centimeters and topstitch them with a decorative seam if desired.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7049&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Another design feature is whether and in what direction\u00a0 you iron the pleats. That is entirely up to your personal preference. However, make sure to work the front pieces symmetrically and in mirroring directions.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_Prepare_open_pleats_for_fitting\"><\/span>3. Prepare open pleats for fitting<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]In order to be able to make any adjustments, you should wait until the fitting is complete before sewing and pressing the pleats. Therefore, I will first show you how to prepare pleats placed to on one side for the fitting. Note the special prcessing if your trousers have a crease![\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7051&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Place the pleat template on the front piece so that it lies against the side seam and top edge.<\/p>\n<p>The template in the example contains two cut-outs, as it is intended for two pleats.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7053&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If you have only selected one pleat, you will only find one cut-out in your template.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7055&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The width of the pleat is referred to as the &#8220;pleat content&#8221;. In this example, the right pleat, which is further forward in the finished trousers, has a pleat content of 5.5 cm. The pleat content of the left, later lateral pleat is 4.5 cm. This means that the waist will be 10 cm narrower after the pleats have been added.<\/p>\n<p>If you have several pleats, you can also divide the pleat content differently. However, the front pleat should be at least as large as the side pleat. It is important that the entire pleat content does not change.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7057&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The position does not necessarily have to be adhered to, as in the template. During the fitting you can still decide whether you like the position and width distribution and change them if necessary.<\/p>\n<p>If you add a wing pocket (a pocket with a visible side opening), make sure that the pleats do not come too close to the pocket opening.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7059&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If the pleats should not be stitched, I mark the position on the right side of the fabric.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7061&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Pleats can open towards the center front or towards the side seam. When opening towards the center front, I place the side leg on the front leg.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7063&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If you want the pleats to open towards the side seam, place the front leg on top of the side leg.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7067&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]In case of trousers <strong>with a crease<\/strong>, the crease forms one leg of the pleat, namely the one that is laid on the other leg nearer to the center front. It ist the outer fold of the pleat. In this example, the pleat is placed towards the side seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7069&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If you want to place the pleat so it opens towards the center front, you must move the pleat content of the crease to the front. If you get too close to the center front, reduce the pleat content of the front pleat and increase it accordingly on the other pleat(s). If there is only one pleat in your pattern, you may have to make a second one.<\/p>\n<p>Again, check during the fitting whether you like the pleats that way.<\/p>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7065&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I align the pleats so they have a nice flow. Then I baste them with a few stitches. I proceed in the same way with a second and further pleats.<\/p>\n<p>I repeat these steps on my other front piece, making sure that the pleats are exactly opposite each other. Then it&#8217;s time to <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-classic-trousers-for-fitting-f03\/\">prepare your trousers for fitting<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>I remove the basting threads at the very end when the trousers are finished.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"4_Prepare_closed_pleats_for_fitting\"><\/span>4. Prepare closed pleats for fitting<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7071&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If you are working with closed pleats, mark them on the wrong side of the fabric. An exception is the pinch pleat, which should be marked on the outside.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7073&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I mark the two pleat legs on the fabric and extend them as far as I want to close the pleat.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7075&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Here I decided on a finished length of 7 cm for the front pleat. The side pleat will be a few millimeters shorter. You can work according to your personal preferences.<\/p>\n<p>Then I mark the exact center of the pleat.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7079&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I fold the fabric exactly at this center notch.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7081&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I baste the fold according to the length marked.<\/p>\n<p>The basting thread that goes further down is for the crease &#8211; don&#8217;t let this confuse you.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7083&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Again, the direction in which you place the pleats is a matter of personal preference for trousers without a crease. If you sew trousers with a crease, the crease forms the outer edge of the pleat, as already mentioned. Make sure to work both front pieces in the opposite direction.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7085&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I baste the pleats from the outside so that they lie in the right direction when I try them on. Now it&#8217;s time to <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-classic-trousers-for-fitting-f03\/\">prepare your trousers for fitting<\/a>.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"5_Sew_closed_pleats_after_fitting\"><\/span>5. Sew closed pleats after fitting<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]After the fitting and any alterations, I stitch the closed pleats. I will show you different variants of stitching using different pieces of fabric.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7101&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]If the pleats are laid on one side, I sew a curve from the end of the legs to the pleat break (left side in the picture).<\/p>\n<p>In the middle you can see the box pleat, which I stitch exactly on the vertical leg. The pinch pleat stitched from the right side of the fabric can be seen on the right.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7089&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I place the contents of the one-sided pleat to the right or the left.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7091&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]For the box pleat, I place the center of the pleat exactly on the seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7093&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I press the pleat.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7095&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The pinch pleat works the same way, only from the right side of the fabric.<\/p>\n<p>You can now topstitch the pleats as desired.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]Here you will find links to the next steps:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-classic-trousers-for-fitting-f03\/\">Preparing classic trousers for fitting #F03<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-french-front-trouser-pockets-tv01\/\">Sew french front trouser pocket #TV01<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sewing-seam-pockets-into-trousers-tv04\/\">Sewing seam pockets into trousers #TV04<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you&#8217;re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you&#8217;ll find some links here:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-the-sewing-pattern-for-cutting\/\">Preparing the pattern for cutting<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/the-cutting-of-fabrics-and-materials\/\">Cutting fabrics and materials<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"featured_media":7818,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[396,398,538,540,575],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9831","anleitungen","type-anleitungen","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-instructions","category-trousers","category-sewing","category-marlene-en","category-pleats"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Insert pleats into trousers #BF01 | smartPATTERN<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In this instructions, I will show you different types of pleats and how to work them into the front ouf your trousers.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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