{"id":9810,"date":"2024-03-23T20:30:34","date_gmt":"2024-03-23T19:30:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/anleitungen\/leg-seams-and-seam-seams-be03\/"},"modified":"2024-05-17T11:28:24","modified_gmt":"2024-05-17T10:28:24","slug":"sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03","status":"publish","type":"anleitungen","link":"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/","title":{"rendered":"Sew leg seams and turnup hem #BE03"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wpb-content-wrapper\"><p>[vc_row][vc_column][vc_zigzag][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=&#8221;2\/3&#8243; css=&#8221;.vc_custom_1605735668177{margin-bottom: 8px !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}&#8221;][vc_column_text]In the following video and illustrated text instructions, I will show you how to sew leg seams and turnup hems on trousers. Working this way, I finish both trouser legs separately before closing the crotch and seat seams. Pockets on the back and front of the trousers should already be worked in. If you have configured your trousers with inseam pockets, the side seams are already closed.[\/vc_column_text][vc_video link=&#8221;https:\/\/youtu.be\/MeFsBleU-98&#8243; title=&#8221;Video instruction:&#8221;][vc_column_text][\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/3&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column el_id=&#8221;testseite&#8221;][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_85 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-white ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#1_This_is_required\" >1. This is required:<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#2_Iron_the_back_trousers_into_shape\" >2. Iron the back trousers into shape<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#3_Close_the_outer_leg_seam\" >3. Close the outer leg seam<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#4_Prepare_the_turnup_hem\" >4. Prepare the turnup hem<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#5_Close_the_inner_leg_seam\" >5. Close the inner leg seam<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#6_Iron_the_turnup_hem\" >6. Iron the turnup hem<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sew-leg-seams-and-turnup-hem-be03\/#7_Attach_the_turnup_hem\" >7. Attach the turnup hem<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"1_This_is_required\"><\/span>1. This is required:<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7481&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Pattern pieces made from main fabric:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>prepared back trousers (HH) &#8211; 1 pair<\/li>\n<li>prepared front trousers (VH)- 1 pair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Paper pattern pieces:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the template for the turnup hem (P-ZH)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/2&#8243;][vc_column_text]Tools and aids:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>pins or clips<\/li>\n<li>scissors<\/li>\n<li>chalk or fabric marker<\/li>\n<li>long ruler<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"2_Iron_the_back_trousers_into_shape\"><\/span>2. Iron the back trousers into shape<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]If you have already ironed your back trousers into shape when trying them on, you can go straight on to the next step.<\/p>\n<p>You can find the ironing instructions <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/ironing-creases-into-trousers-add02\/\">here<\/a> in step 3.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_Close_the_outer_leg_seam\"><\/span>3. Close the outer leg seam<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]If you are sewing your trousers with seam pockets and the outer leg seams are already closed, continue with step 4.<br \/>\nIf your trousers do not have knee lining, you must first neaten the inside and outside edges of the legs, the top edge and the crotch seam before closing the leg seams. You can cut back the front edge of the front trouser part to which the fly facing will later be sewn, according to the marking on the pattern.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7445&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I place one front and back piece right sides facing, align the side seam, making notches meet, and pin in place.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7595&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I sew the side seam. Pay attention to the correct seam allowance, indicating on the pattern.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7359&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I press open the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<p>In this step I like to use my wooden brush or tailor&#8217;s clapper to make the seam nice and flat.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7365&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I press open the seam allowance at the top of the trousers using an ironing pad or the round end of the ironing board.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"4_Prepare_the_turnup_hem\"><\/span>4. Prepare the turnup hem<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]In the following pictures, the legs of my trousers have already been joined. Don&#8217;t let this confuse you. The crotch seam is sewn later, after the inside leg seam is closed. I will point this out again.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7545&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h3>Marking<\/h3>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]I place the template for the turnup hem aligning with the bottom edge.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7547&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I mark the upper turnup edge across the entire width of the trousers.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7549&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I connect the markings with a long ruler.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7517&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I then turn the trousers inside out and press the hem wrong sides together at the marking.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7551&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]The hem is now folded back again and the template is placed on the folded line that has just been created. Now I mark the inner hem edge across the entire hem width.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7555&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Again, I connect the markings with a long ruler.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7519&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h3>Ironing<\/h3>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Turing the pants again right side facing up, I fold the hem right sides together along the drawn line and make sure not to remove the pressed edge.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7459&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I fold the raw edge of the hem along under the ironed fold towards the left side of the trousers.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7521&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I turn the trousers left side up and iron the raw edge left sides facing.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7577&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Alternatively, I pin the hem edge to the outer leg seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7523&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I place the bottom hem edge around the inner hem edge and press it upwards.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7463&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7461&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]And this is what the turnin in the area of the inner leg seam looks like. Here you can clearly see how the layers of fabric are positioned.[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]The turnup hem is now prepared. You can see the turnup on the right, the leg seam in the middle and the inside view or turnin on the left.<\/p>\n<p>To close the inner leg seam, I unfold the turnup hem again.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"5_Close_the_inner_leg_seam\"><\/span>5. Close the inner leg seam<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7483&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I lay the inside edges of the front and back trousers right sides together.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7229&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]At the top of the inside leg seam, I mark the width of the seam allowance on the back trousers.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7215&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]In this position, I secure the upper end of the inner leg seam with a clip or pin. The front and back trousers meet exactly at the marking in the crotch curve.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7217&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I pin the remaining section of the inner leg seam together. When doing this, I make sure that the notches meet at knee hight. From the knee towards the inseam, the back trousers must be stretched to the length of the front trousers. You may have already prepared this when ironing the hind trousers.<\/p>\n<p>I sew with the seam allowance indicated on the pattern.<\/p>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7485&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I use a sleeve board to iron out the inner leg seam.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7489&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I press the seam allowances open as done previously with the other side seam. I work with a lot of pressure and take some time to flatten the seam completely. Of course, you can also use a wooden brush or tailor&#8217;s clapper again.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7621&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I finish the hem edge with the overlocker or a zig-zag stitch.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"6_Iron_the_turnup_hem\"><\/span>6. Iron the turnup hem<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7491&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]By ironing out the side seam, the break lines of the turnup hem are no longer clearly visible in this area.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7525&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I therefore iron the top edge of the turnup hem first.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7529&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Then I fold the turnup inwards and iron the hem edge again.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"7_Attach_the_turnup_hem\"><\/span>7. Attach the turnup hem<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Sewing the hem into place will prevent it from unfolding later.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7505&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]First, I turn the trousers right side up. Then I fold the hem upwards.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7511&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I fasten the lower part of the turnup with a few pins and make sure the seams meet exactly at the side seams.<\/p>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7561&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I measure the distance from the fold to the hem edge and add 10 mm and take a note of this amount.<\/p>\n<p>In this example, the distance between the fold and hem edge is 15 mm, so I note an amount of 25 mm.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7706&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I place the ruler on the folded edge and mark the amount I just determined (in my case 25 mm) from the folded edge downwards.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7565&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Fold the turnin down again and sew all the way around along the marking.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7539&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I then fold the turnup back up and pin the hem at the edge to prevent it from slipping. I pin the seams exactly together.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7571&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]I fold the upper end of the turnup hem to the side and sew all the way around just next to the previously sewn seam. This is how I stitch the inner fold.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7573&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]It looks like this from the inside. The seam is not visible from the outside.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7515&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]To prevent the turn-up from folding down, I sew the top edge invisibly in the area of the seams.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7531&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]Finally, the hem is ironed again.[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=&#8221;7708&#8243; img_size=&#8221;full&#8221; add_caption=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column_text]This is what the finished trouser leg looks like. I repeat the steps for the second leg.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]If you have opted for pressed pleats, these are now also pressed into the hem area.<\/p>\n<p>If you also want to add a crease to the back of the trousers, you can find the corresponding instructions <a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/insert-pleats-into-trousers-bf01\/\">here<\/a>.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=&#8221;yes&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text]Here you will find the link to the next step:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/sewing-fly-with-zipper-in-classic-trousers-z04\/\">Sewing fly with zipper in classic trousers #Z04<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you&#8217;re not quite ready yet and perhaps want to start at the beginning, you&#8217;ll find some links here:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/preparing-the-sewing-pattern-for-cutting\/\">Preparing the pattern for cutting<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/smartpattern.de\/en\/instructions\/the-cutting-of-fabrics-and-materials\/\">Cutting fabrics and materials<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"featured_media":7812,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[398,399,538,540,573,396],"tags":[405],"class_list":["post-9810","anleitungen","type-anleitungen","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-trousers","category-trousers-en","category-sewing","category-marlene-en","category-leg-seams","category-instructions","tag-sew-trouser-hem"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Sew leg seams and turnup hem #BE03 | smartPATTERN<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" 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